a springtime Caprese

Deborah
How laughable that not even a month ago we were bemoaning the cold rainy weather. It feels like August in Key West right now, here in Queens, NY and we have barely brushed the surface of June.  It is already too hot to cook, so I am offering up a version of a deep summer recipe that would suit a steamy day like today.

 Lemon Balm has taken over my herb bed.  It is time to be ruthless and tear some out.

My herb garden has already become so overgrown it needs serious cutting back. A fresh herb pesto, made with a mix of the tenderest of spring herb leaves, is great to have on hand in the fridge. This pesto becomes a perfect addition to salads, soups, as a starter for a vinaigrette or a topping for grilled vegetables. Add some mayonnaise to it and use it as a sandwich spread.

With Caribbean mangoes now very visible in the markets what a great time to give this fruit a shot on the grill! For best results look for a firm, ripe mango that is not too mushy. The heat and smoke will intensify the flavor and leave really pretty grill marks on the flesh.

Gather up the ingredients for a simple summer salad.

With all this new-found abundance a grilled salad of Mango and mozzarella cheese with fresh herb pesto becomes a simple meal that can come together in minutes, which is about all the time you would want to spend cooking in this heat. The recipe is a play on the traditional Caprese Salad of fresh mozzarella cheese and garden fresh tomatoes served with basil and olive oil. We still have several weeks before any good tomatoes will be available, so consider this alternative for a springtime take on this classic.

Grilled Mango and Mozzarella Salad with Herb Pesto
oil for grilling
1 mango, peeled and sliced into slabs
1 lb. fresh mozerella, sliced into 1/2' slabs
6-8 large lettuce leaves
1/2 cup fresh herb pesto- see recipe below

Lightly oil a hot grill and cook the mangos about three minutes per side, till warmed through with visible grill marks, but not too cooked that they fall apart. Remove from heat. Add the sliced mozerella on the grill for barely one minute to warm the chesse, but don't let it melt into the grill.
Arrange the slices of cheese and the mango on a bed of the lettuce leaves and dress with the herb pesto.

Fresh Herb Pesto
-for this recipe mix and match herbs as you like. It could be just one herb, like the classic basil or a mix of two or more.  If you are mixing different herbs from the garden, choose the youngest, most tender leaves- any of these would work well: parsley, mint, tarragon, cilantro, sage, oregano, lemon balm, chives, basil, dill, chervil, lovage, thyme.

2 cups chopped fresh herbs
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons walnuts
1 tablespoon capers
1 teaspoon salt
2 cloves garlic
Put all ingredients in a food processor and blend till the consistensy is thick, adding more oil as needed.
Makes about one cup. Store in the fridge for up to two weeks.

For another grilled mango recipe, one that includes shrimp and a spicy BBQ, sauce check out my post on the Edible Queens Blog.

Amanda
Deb, you should consider a career in cookbook photography. As if your schedule isn't full enough! But honestly, your pictures are beautiful!  The salad looks gorgeous.

For those of you red wine lovers...sorry, but this time of year I'm mostly about white, especially with all of these wonderful light salads. That being said, I'm a big believer in simply choosing whatever wine you desire, to complement the foods you love. So, if it's red your craving, that's what you should drink. Just be sure to try and match the body of the wine with the weight of the meal. You don't want one to overpower the other. For example, you wouldn't go with a big heavy Cab here. Look for something on the lighter side like a Beaujolais perhaps.

For me, typically I would go with something light, dry and crisp. But here I'm going to be adventurous and go for a Moscato d'Asti. Often enjoyed as a dessert wine, it is sweet and low in alcohol (which makes it perfect for an afternoon brunch). This slightly sparkling (frizzante) white comes from the region of Asti in Piedmont, in northwest Italy. Moscato Bianco is the grape. Flavors of peach and pear are dominant in this crowd-pleasing wine. It's particularly delicious with fresh fruit (hence my choice for this recipe)! Deb's summery salad and a glass of Moscato are a perfect combination this time of year.

Moscato's are also very reasonably priced - there are so many outstanding examples in the $15 price range. La Spinetta is one of my favorite producers. Their Moscato d'Asti Bricco Quaglia is sublime...and affordable at $15.99. These wines are not meant to be aged so try to find the youngest vintage you can. Right now, the 2010's are what you should be looking for.

Mmmmm. I know what I'm making this weekend!

A seasonal gratin

Deborah

The goodies are piled high at the farmer's market today. I visited the market on Dahlia Street, outside the Queens Botanical Garden, to pick up some produce for the weekend. The radishes and all the beautiuful greens were particularly tempting.

 

This is the moment I have been waiting for: the first crisp tart apples of the season. The first bite, a resounding snap of the skin followed by a rush of sweet juicy flesh always sends me over the moon! The arugula looked fantastic too, fragrant with that nutty aroma. Ah, the end of summer. Not so bad I guess.

The market had so many pretty bundles of leafy greens, but these mustard greens looked so tender and fresh I had to have them. There were some young leeks being offered as well and my cooking fantasies began. I had an inclination to make some type of egg based gratin with the mustard greens and leeks, but I was a little nervous because mustard greens can be sharp and domineering in a dish. I was concerned they would be too bitter to make a nice egg dish. Taking it cautiously I sauteed up the leeks and some shallots and then added the chopped mustard greens, cooking everything down till tender. I finished the cooking with a splash of white wine and some grated nutmeg for a little sweetness. So far so good. The greens had a tiny bite, but it was fairly mild. Everything goes into the food processor with the eggs and some grated cheese. I poured it all into a buttered baking dish and topped it with more cheese and then into the oven for 20 minutes.

It came out looking so pretty, and then I tasted it. Yippee!! Sooooooooo GOOD! The greens were definitely assertive, but not overbearing. They gave the dish a really mature deep flavor, so much more interesting than if I had used spinach. 

Mustard Greens & Leek Gratin
3 Tbs. Butter
1 leek, white and green parts chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
4 cups chopped mustard greens
splash of white wine
1/2 teas. grated nutmeg
1 cup grated Gruyere cheese
4 eggs
3 Tbs chopped fresh herbs (any one or combination of parsley, tarragon, basil. dill)
1/4 cup grated Romano cheese

Pre-heat oven to 375F
Butter a small baking dish with one Tbs. of butter and set aside. Heat the 2 remaining Tbs butter in a saute pan. Add the leeks and the shallots and cook slowly for about 8 minutes. Add the chopped mustard greens and let it cook down slowly for 10 minutes. When the greens have wilted add a splash of white wine and season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan and continue to simmer for 5 minutes till all the vegetables are tender. Put the cooked greens mixture into a food processor and add the eggs and the Gruyere cheese. Process for about 30 seconds till ingredients are a uniform size and well combined. Pour mixture in to the buttered baking dish and top with the Romano cheese. Bake for 20 minutes until eggs are set.

serves two as a lunch entree or 4 as a side dish

Esperanza!

Deborah
How I adore her! The jazz bass player Esperanza Spalding first came to my attention in an article from the New York Times Magazine, a sunday section that I peruse for the photos and a quick glance at the captions, but never fully read because the articles usually irritate me so. But this was different, a profile of this young, beautiful and talented jazz musician- I had to know more. Her eponymous titled CD is heaven to listen to. Esperanza sings too, in a sweet buttery smooth, sexy voice with lots of Brazilian inflections. Her musicality hits me right in the heart. When I saw that she was playing at Summer Stage, the free outdoor concert venue in Central Park, last week as part of a lineup with McCoy Tyner and Ravi Coltrane, I HAD TO GO!

The CareFusion Jazz Festival at Summer Stage in Central Park last Wednesday night.

The show was fantastic  (despite the heat) and the beautiful sunset just added to the summer-in-the-city ambiance. The music was riveting.  Esperanza in person was all I hope for: cute, sassy and bouncy AND the girl has chops!

The hot but happy crowd! Did I mention that the Stanley Clarke Band knocked our socks off when they played the second set?

As the evening wore on the air cooled off a bit and it became a gorgeous night in Central Park.

I decided right then and there that I want to dedicate a recipe to her and I immediately thought of green olive salsa. Esperanza is young and still green, but with tons of depth, lots of piquant spice and pizazz AND she draws on a long history, just like green olives - what could be more appropriate?

Summer Stage is hosting some wonderful food vendors this summer and that evening I was enjoying  delicious pizza from Pizza Moto (they bring their own wood burning oven on site!)  Green olive salsa would be fantastic on a slice of their ricotta and tomato pie.

Green Olive Salsa
1 cup of pitted green olives
1/2 cup fresh tender herbs (parsley, mint, basil, cilantro)
2 garlic cloves
1-2 chilie peppers
zest of one lemon
1 Tbs. red wine vinegar
1 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
Combine all ingredients in a food processor and pulse till well chopped, scrapping down the sides of the bowl as you go to make sure the texture is even. Serve as a condiment or directly on crackers.

makes about 1.5 cups

Amanda
Sounds like a fantastic night in Central Park! Not much beats a summer night in NYC. Deb's salsa is so versatile, I can think of so many different ways to enjoy it. Definitely on the pizza as Deb suggests. Spreading a little on some garlic rubbed grilled crostini would be superb as well, or alongside some simple, broiled fish.


Deb's Green Olive Salsa would pair wonderfully with a glass of Cabernet Franc, especially if the salsa were atop pizza. Cabernet Franc is a cousin of Cabernet Sauvignon, but because of its thinner skin it has lower tannin levels. It thrives in cooler climates, and is a very important varietal in the Bordeaux and Loire Valley regions of France. Though it has been grown successfully in warmer climates like Australia, California and South Africa. It produces a fruity wine and is a bit more subdued than Cab Sauvignon. Typically, a glass of Cab Franc will demonstrate flavors of bell pepper, raspberries and perhaps a bit of tobacco. I love the idea of these characteristics paired with the salty, herbal flavors of Deb's salsa. I think it's a match made in heaven!

Some of my favorite Cab Francs are Chinon, from the Loire Valley in France. The area produces mostly red wines, based on this varietal. The wines are fresh, light and subtle. Chinon Rose's are amazing as well. One of my favorite producers in this region is Couly Dutheil. They produce a lovely, bold Cab Franc called La Baronnie Madeleine. I love this wine! The Wine Spectator, in it's review of this wine, makes note of it's "green olive tapenade" flavors. My favorite summertime Rose also comes from Couly Dutheil - Chinon Rose Couly Rose. I like to refer to this wine as "summertime in a glass". Either one of these wines would be a tremendous hit with Deb's Green Olive Salsa!

home town brew

Deborah
The solstice is almost upon us and these long days mean staying outdoors as much as possible to soak up the beautiful weather. New York City is busting out with great summer concerts for the next several months and there is truly something for everyone. This weekend will find me in Prospect Park to hear Bitches Brew Revisited, celebrating the 40th anniversary of the Miles Davis classic by a fantastic line-up of jazz musicians. My friends and I have a favorite spot under the trees where we picnic and enjoy the music with the crowd. It is total fun and the perfect way to spend a summer solstice evening in NY.

Picnic fare can be almost anything for me. I tend to bring vegetable salads, while another friend will bring fruit and cheese. Our pot luck picnics are one of the great joys of the summer. The incredible use of outdoor space in NY is one of the many reasons why it is my favorite city on earth!

These tiny blossoms- the yellow is from mustard greens and the pink is from a radish, make a pretty and tasty garnish for summer salads.

Green Bean Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette

2 quarts salted water
4 cups of trimmed green beans
1/4 thinly sliced onion
1 Tbs. sherry vinegar
1/2 teas. salt
1 teas. black pepper
2 Tbs. whole grain mustard
3 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbs. chopped fresh herbs like dill, tarragon, basil, parsley (optional)


Bring water to a boil and cook the green beans until bright green and tender, about 10 minutes. Drain beans and rinse quickly under cold water and set aside to allow them to dry. Put sliced onions in a cup with enough cold water to cover them and let the onions soak for 5 minutes, then drain.
Make the vinaigrette:
in a small bowl put the vinegar, salt, pepper and mustard and whisk to combine. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking as you go to create an emulsion. The vinaigrette will be thick.
In a large bowl combine the green beans and the drained onions and toss with the vinaigrette. Chill in the fridge for an hour before serving. Just before serving toss into the salad any fresh herbs you may be using.
serves 4

peaches and herbs

"Any sort of salad mixed without some enticing herb flavours can be a comparatively dull thing."

 -Audrey Wynne Hatfield, Pleasures of Herbs

Deborah
When I think about cooking with fresh herbs I put them into two categories: the tender herbs that I feel free to combine in any proportion and use interchangeably versus the hardy wood stemmed herbs that have more pronounced essential oils and a dominant flavor.
The tender herbs are ones I would put in a salad, a salsa or a pesto. The hardy herbs work great in a braise, on the grill, in a soup, a stew or a stuffing. To put the flavor of these hardy herbs in a salad consider infusing them in vinegar or olive oil to extract the flavor with out the chewy texture of the actual leaves.
These are not hardened rules, just a guideline for easy cooking. It is fun to experiment with combinations and I urge everyone to do so as the pleasures of herbs are infinite. Some of the hardy herbs when young can be used as tender herbs, for example there are some varieties of thyme that seem to retain their tender stem. Also not to be overlooked are the blossoms from herb plants. These delicate flowers make a picturesque addition to salads and vegetable dishes and are flavorful too.

Basil and mint are tender herbs from the same family. The tiny leaves of globe basil on the left can be tossed whole into salads.

Tender Herbs 
-use whole or chopped in any combination in salads
cilantro
basil
parsley
tarragon
dill
mint
lemon balm
chervil
sorrel
chives
fennel
verbena

Oregano and thyme are herbs I use more sparingly in salads.

Hardy Herbs
-use sparingly in salads when leaves are young
rosemary
thyme
sage
savory
lavender
oregano
marjoram
bay

The chive blossom is composed of a cluster of tiny flowers. I snip them apart with a scissor at the base of the stem and toss them over a salad. These pretty purple sage blossoms have a lovely, fragrant sage-y flavor.

Edible Flowers from Herbs
chives
lavender
borage
arugula
rosemary
sage

Rose petals are edible and beautiful.

Composed Salad of Mango, Peaches, Goat Cheese and Herbs

The fruit is dressed with mint, rose petals, globe basil and sage blossoms. Crumble some goat cheese on top (not pictured)  and then lightly drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and a splash of balsamic or sherry vinegar.

Amanda

Deb does a great job of breaking down the herbs into two groups, and summing up in a concise way the best ways to utilize nature's flavor enhancers. Her "rules" make it very easy for novices like myself to allow our own "inner chefs" to confidently make our own, creative choices. That is what I love about her posts, and particularly this one.

As for wine, there are no steadfast rules to follow when it comes to herbs. There are so many different factors that come into play. I would, however, tend to pair reds with the heartier herbs like thyme, oregano, rosemary and marjoram. But still, there are other things to consider. You really have to consider the whole sauce, marinade or dressing. For example, you could have a light, herbal vinaigrette that would call for something lively, like Gruner Veltliner or Sauvignon Blanc perhaps. These wines typically have herbal characteristics themselves. But you could also have a creamy dressing or sauce which might be wonderful with a fuller bodied white like a Chardonnay. Always consider the texture and the acidity of the dressing or sauce.

Red wine often works better, in my opinion, with tomato-based sauces. So a typical spaghetti sauce with fresh herbs would work well with a Chianti, for example. And stews which utilize heartier herbs like thyme, marjoram, and rosemary will taste better paired with a similarly hearty red. It will also be important to consider the spices in a wine, and the heat they give off.

For Deb's salad in this recipe, as in our last post, I would once again choose a Moscato. Fruit salad just screams for this slightly sweet, frizzante dessert wine. (which also works beautifully as an aperitif).