nirvana!

Deborah
Ahhhhh, happiness. So often, as we know,  it is the simplest things in life. Our one year anniversary of the blog brings me back to where I wrote the first post: Saratoga Springs, home to one of my favorite farmer's markets. Last year I reported the sad news of the tomato blight. This year all seems well for the growers.

The big revelation for me at the market this summer was when I drifted by Dancing Ewe Farm's display of raw milk cheeses. I had to have a taste and that was it: Nirvana! The flavor was unbelievable, you can really taste the rawness of the milk- tart and grassy, earthy and creamy. Loved it! Bought some, natch.

Jody Somers, cheese-maker, handing out samples with a confident reserve that practically shouted "Yeah, I know it is good, now you do too"

I opted for a hunk of the caciotta and figured I would come up with a salad that my husband and I could dive into during our annual picnic dinner in Saratoga State Park.

The cheese tasted phenomenal with some local arugula and tomatoes. The red onion went on the grill and rounded out this hearty salad. 

I saved a little of the cheese to bring home and made another version of the salad with the addition of some of my backyard ingredients. Fruit, especially peaches, taste great with tomatoes and cheese. My next door neighbor had planted a peach tree in their own yard a few years back and it is now spilling over the fence into my yard. This is the first year that the tree has produced a crop that could be harvested.

The white flesh peaches are really not bad for a Queens backyard! I added them to the salad and finished it off with the three varieties of basil that I have growing in pots.

Tomato, Arugula, Peach and Caciotta Cheese Salad with Three Basils

The name says it all and what the heck, I had fun making a local meets local salad to celebrate summer produce at its best. 

One of my other favorite stops while in Saratoga Springs is the Saratoga Wine Exchange where they display what seems like hundreds of wines, many with descriptive tags to help one make a decision. I was drawn to a white chenin blanc called Indaba from South Africa. In addition to the bright fruity notes it had a caramel buttered popcorn undertone that worked beautifully with the cheese.

Ok, so the wine is not exactly local, but it made me feel like a do-gooder because the wine label states that the proceeds of the sales will go the Indaba Scholarship to "open the wine industry doors to a new generation of South Africans".   Doing good AND drinking wine. Nirvana indeed!

Amanda

This is a beautiful, summery salad! Love the pictures. And Chenin Blanc is one of my favorite varietals, particularly from the Loire Valley in France. There, it is the most widely planted varietal. Depending on where it is made, it can produce a variety of wines from sparkling, to dry, off-dry and sweet.  The wine Deb chose for her salad is from South Africa, as she mentioned. It is also the most widely planted varietal in that country as well. Known as Steen, South African Chenin Blanc will typically display flavors of tropical fruit, peaches, bananas and honey. These rich fruit flavors must have been wonderful with the cheese in particular! The creamy quality of the cheese would be delicious accompanied by a sip of the Chenin's luscious fruit!

I would also not hesitate to enjoy a Sauvignon Blanc with this salad. This wine of course will have a completely different flavor profile then the Chenin Blanc, but the crisp, lively, herbal, grassy flavors would surely complement the salad perfectly.

Deb - just curious - did you use any dressing or olive oil drizzle for your salad? I agree about fruit in salads. This past weekend I made a salad of romaine, chopped basil and chives, cucumber and watermelon with a simple garlic vinaigrette made with aged sherry vinegar. I loved the watermelon/cucumber combination. It was so refreshing! And the herbs really brought out the best in the fruit.

 

peaches and herbs

"Any sort of salad mixed without some enticing herb flavours can be a comparatively dull thing."

 -Audrey Wynne Hatfield, Pleasures of Herbs

Deborah
When I think about cooking with fresh herbs I put them into two categories: the tender herbs that I feel free to combine in any proportion and use interchangeably versus the hardy wood stemmed herbs that have more pronounced essential oils and a dominant flavor.
The tender herbs are ones I would put in a salad, a salsa or a pesto. The hardy herbs work great in a braise, on the grill, in a soup, a stew or a stuffing. To put the flavor of these hardy herbs in a salad consider infusing them in vinegar or olive oil to extract the flavor with out the chewy texture of the actual leaves.
These are not hardened rules, just a guideline for easy cooking. It is fun to experiment with combinations and I urge everyone to do so as the pleasures of herbs are infinite. Some of the hardy herbs when young can be used as tender herbs, for example there are some varieties of thyme that seem to retain their tender stem. Also not to be overlooked are the blossoms from herb plants. These delicate flowers make a picturesque addition to salads and vegetable dishes and are flavorful too.

Basil and mint are tender herbs from the same family. The tiny leaves of globe basil on the left can be tossed whole into salads.

Tender Herbs 
-use whole or chopped in any combination in salads
cilantro
basil
parsley
tarragon
dill
mint
lemon balm
chervil
sorrel
chives
fennel
verbena

Oregano and thyme are herbs I use more sparingly in salads.

Hardy Herbs
-use sparingly in salads when leaves are young
rosemary
thyme
sage
savory
lavender
oregano
marjoram
bay

The chive blossom is composed of a cluster of tiny flowers. I snip them apart with a scissor at the base of the stem and toss them over a salad. These pretty purple sage blossoms have a lovely, fragrant sage-y flavor.

Edible Flowers from Herbs
chives
lavender
borage
arugula
rosemary
sage

Rose petals are edible and beautiful.

Composed Salad of Mango, Peaches, Goat Cheese and Herbs

The fruit is dressed with mint, rose petals, globe basil and sage blossoms. Crumble some goat cheese on top (not pictured)  and then lightly drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and a splash of balsamic or sherry vinegar.

Amanda

Deb does a great job of breaking down the herbs into two groups, and summing up in a concise way the best ways to utilize nature's flavor enhancers. Her "rules" make it very easy for novices like myself to allow our own "inner chefs" to confidently make our own, creative choices. That is what I love about her posts, and particularly this one.

As for wine, there are no steadfast rules to follow when it comes to herbs. There are so many different factors that come into play. I would, however, tend to pair reds with the heartier herbs like thyme, oregano, rosemary and marjoram. But still, there are other things to consider. You really have to consider the whole sauce, marinade or dressing. For example, you could have a light, herbal vinaigrette that would call for something lively, like Gruner Veltliner or Sauvignon Blanc perhaps. These wines typically have herbal characteristics themselves. But you could also have a creamy dressing or sauce which might be wonderful with a fuller bodied white like a Chardonnay. Always consider the texture and the acidity of the dressing or sauce.

Red wine often works better, in my opinion, with tomato-based sauces. So a typical spaghetti sauce with fresh herbs would work well with a Chianti, for example. And stews which utilize heartier herbs like thyme, marjoram, and rosemary will taste better paired with a similarly hearty red. It will also be important to consider the spices in a wine, and the heat they give off.

For Deb's salad in this recipe, as in our last post, I would once again choose a Moscato. Fruit salad just screams for this slightly sweet, frizzante dessert wine. (which also works beautifully as an aperitif).

GaGa, ooh la la

Deborah

What a glorious weekend! I took a long walk on Sunday, from my home in Rego Park, Queens through Flushing Meadow Park to the Queens Botanical Garden. The Spring flowering bulbs where at full peak and offered an overwhelmingly sensual experience. I flung myself on the grass next to the flower beds and breathed deep. The perfume floating out of the blossoms warmed from the sun was intoxicating. My mind slowed down to the point where this cliche was the only way to describe the blissful moment. AND the insane riot of color on the fleshy, velvety petals had me humming Lady Gaga songs as I made my way through the garden paths.

Walking back home I made a point to stop by at least one of the many Ecuadorean food vendor carts located on the eastern edge of the park.

The large jugs of bright green hot sauce (aji criollo) on the picnic tables drew me in. All I needed was a vehicle to get the hot sauce into my mouth.
Featured on the grill of Mi Pequeno Turruno were sweet potato croquets served with a salad. My second selection was something I had never seen or tried before- baked sweet plantains stuffed with mozzarella cheese, a combination that proved inspired: sweet, salty, mushy, yummy. Delish to everything!

sweet potato croquette

Baked stuffed plantain stuffed with mozzarella paired with a large helping of Ecuadorean hot sauce!


I came home and made my own version of the hot sauce with onions, garlic, lime juice and jalapenos.

I was able to find a recipe for the plantains online- a straight forward preparation as I suspected.
I am not sure what one drinks with this dish. Maybe something comes to mind Amanda?

These recipes are from the web site The Cooking Adventures of Chef Paz

Aji Criollo (Ecuadorian Hot Sauce)
Ingredients:
4 jalapenos, seeds removed
1/2 bunch of cilantro (stems and leaves)
1/2 cup of water
3 garlic cloves
Juice from 1/2 lime or lemon
3 Tbs finely chopped white onion (scallions can also be used)
Salt

Put all ingredients in food processor and blend.

Sweet Baked Plantain with Cheese
Ingredients:
6 ripe plantains, whole
1-2 Tbs melted butter or oil, use as little as you want
6 thick slices of mozzarella

Preparation:
Pre-heat oven to 400 F
Peel the plantains, place them on a baking sheet and rub them with butter or oil.
Bake the plantains for 30 minutes, then turn each one and bake for another 15 - 20 minutes or until golden on both sides.

Remove the plantains from the oven, made a horizontal slit on the middle of each plantain, and stuff them with cheese slices

In a few minutes the cheese will have melted, serve immediately, with or without hot sauce.

Amanda
Well, yes. This is a bit tough. But as in relationships - "there is someone for everyone" - so it is with food. At least in my mind. There is a libation out there for all things edible, and I am on an endless quest to find the best partners. I guess you could call me the "yenta" of food and beverage.


The sweet potato croquette and salad could certainly be a meal in and of itself. But I see the stuffed plantain as something "fun" served at a party. Therefore, I wouldn't pair something specifically with that dish. I would pour something that is just very versatile in general. As it is Spring, and I am in a "warm weather" frame of mind, my taste buds are affected greatly, and what I crave has changed with the weather. I am now in a Sangria state of mind, and I would highly recommend this chilled delight as an accompaniment to the wonderful recipes with which Deb has provided us. Red or white would work fine.


I originally discovered my latest favorite white Sangria recipe from Fine Cooking magazine. It is irresistable! Be careful though, it is so utterly refreshing and wonderful that it goes down incredibly easy! I think it would be marvelous next to the stuffed plantain topped with the hot sauce. And the abundance of fruit in the Sangria would serve perfectly to quell the heat from the jalapenos.


For white Sangria, I typically use an inexpensive, fruity Spanish wine (the same holds true for red). Many times I'll use an Albarino. The particular recipe I like is a Peach/Pear Sangria. Start off by peeling and dicing a variety of pears and peaches. Then, take 1 bottle of white wine, add 2 cups pear nectar, 1 tablespoon of simple syrup, 1/4 cup of gin, 3 tablespoons of triple sec and the fruit. I usually put it in the refridgerator for about 4 hours to let the fruit absorb the sangria a bit. I typically do not add ice to the pitcher, but rather chill it in the fridge. I prefer to add the ice to the cups. That way, the Sangria does not get too watery, especially if it is outside in the sun.


This Sangria is wonderful and easy, and I highly recommend it! Especially with stuffed plantains and Ecuadorian hot sauce!

Music to my ears

Deborah
Waiting all year for a particular harvest is like waiting for your favorite rock band to come to town. Once they are here you have to act fast, because it will be quite a while before you have a chance see them again.
The Pains of Being Pure at Heart at South Street Seaport July '09, just one of the many fantastic outdoor concerts we saw this summer! Photo:Alan Mann

So it is with corn. Yes, you can get it all year round, but when it is fresh and in season and coming from a local farm, there is nothing like it. I wondered if Amanda had any thoughts about wine pairing with corn. Light, sweet, grassy, a little nutty perhaps, are the flavors I would associate with corn. Two corn dishes I love to make are a simple saute of corn with peppers and a curried corn fritter. The fritters are light and airy with just a hint of curry to add some depth and interest. Eat them hot hot hot out of the frying pan and the fresh corn kernels will burst in your mouth with sweetness. I like to serve these fritters with peach salsa. There are still some nice peaches out there and this salsa tastes great with everything.

The Southwestern style corn saute is a really quick dish with a tiny bite coming from the addition of chili powder and finely minced jalapenos to add some color and crunch. I make this dish all year round, but when the corn is fresh and tender it delightfully melts in your mouth. Sublime!

I wonder who else is in town this weekend?

Curried Corn Fritters with Peach Salsa
2 ears of corn, kernels removed from cob
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup milk
2 scallions minced
1/3 cup of yellow cornmeal
3 Tbs flour
1 tsp curry powder
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
3 Tbs canola oil
Mix corn kernels with the egg, milk, and scallions. Add the dry ingredients and stir to blend. Heat oil in shallow pan till hot and nearly smoking.
Drop 1 large tablespoon of corn batter into hot oil for each fritter.
Cook till golden, about 2 minutes and then flip and cook 2 more minutes. Drain on paper towel and salt to taste while still hot.




serve immediately with salsa






Peach Salsa
2 large peaches peeled and chopped into small cubes
1/2 red onion finely chopped
1 jalapeno finely chopped
2 Tbs chopped cilantro
1/2 tsp salt
Juice of one lime
Mix all ingredients and allow to sit for 15 minutes for flavors to combine.

Southwest Pan Sauteed Corn
2 Tbs canola oil
1 jalapeno pepper finely minced
1/2 red bell pepper finely minced
4 ears of corn, kernels removed from cob
1 tsp chili powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 Tbs butter
Heat oil in saute pan add jalapeno and peppers and cook about five minutes till they begin to soften. Add the corn and continue to cook till corn takes on a bright color, about 5 more minutes. Add the chili powder, salt and butter and cook another minute or two till flavors are blended and the butter is completely melted. serves 4
Amanda
Both recipes sound fabulous. And, since my husband is an avid corn fan, I may just have to surprise him with these this weekend! I have perfect wines in mind for both. I think a Pinot Blanc from Alsace, France would be a super hit with the corn fritters, especially given the addition of curry powder. The wonderful fruit flavors of the wine are traditionally a great combination with Indian spices. And, the wine is perfectly suited to the peach salsa as well. Pinot Blanc from this region in France typically displays terrific aromas and flavors of peaches and pears, and is usually rich and round on the palate. One of my favorite whites, the wine will display different characteristics dependent upon where it is produced. In California, the wine can be more Chardonnay-like. But I think one from Alsace, a bit more delicate in style, really would be so perfect with these fritters!
And, I have a great match for the Corn Sautee! Last night I was at a wine dinner with winemaker Nick Goldschmidt, who produces fabulous wines from New Zealand, Australia and California. He is incredibly knowledgable as well has extremely funny. At the event, I sampled his Forefathers Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. The wine has a lot of stone fruit and pear characteristics, and is a bit "bigger" than a typical Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. The delicious flavors of passion fruit on the finish will surely stand up to, and subdue, the spicy kick from the jalapeno peppers. The slightly sweet, grassy flavors of the corn that Deborah described above will also perfectly complement any New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc!