bottom of the barrel

Deborah

It is starting to feel serious. We are still looking at weeks of fresh vegetable drought. I do believe there are a few signs of hope. The twigs I am forcing to bloom indoors have finally sprouted a SINGLE leaf. Ok, that's one down. Also spotted was the first poking of the daffodil bulbs I tucked into the ground many months ago. Well, it is a start.

Meanwhile in the kitchen, I am looking hard at the same old thing. Those tiresome root vegetables are really driving me crazy. Instead of attempting transformation I have decided to dive directly in and glorify what I've got. A simple roasting of three winter vegetables can become not such a bad thing. I had some pumpkin, a hunk of rutabaga and a few carrots to play with. The strategy was to cut them into relativley small pieces so they would cook quickly.

There is a slight color difference between the three vegetables, but I wanted to emphasisize their differences even more by cutting each one into a slightly different shape. When mixed together after cooking you would be able to tell them apart.

The carrots are cut on a cylindrical angle, the pumpkin is cubed and the rutabaga is in wedges.

A splash of oil and soy sauce, a sprinkle of salt and pepper and a few garlic cloves complete the preparation. Bake at 425 degrees for 30 minutes or until tender.

The results have lifted a smile to my face. The smell from the oven was inviting. A bite of each vegetable revealed their individual characteristics. The rutabega had a balanced and buttery flavor. The pumpkin had a deep, smokey sweetness. The carrot played the high note with a fresh, almost green taste.
So I have found some solace and will continue my patient wait for the vernal stirrings of the earth.

Amanda

Deb, the picture of the daffodils beginning to peek through the ground really made me smile! As I sit here at my desk looking out the window at the leafless trees and dreary grey skies, the thought of impending bright yellow flowers blooming in the not-so-distant future truly made my day! And my involvement in this blog and your inspirational recipes have really sparked and solidified my interests in eating locally and seasonally. As a result, I just cannot wait till Springtime produce is abundant! I am eagerly anticipating the transition into the different delicacies the warmer weather will offer us! Can't wait to hit the farmers' markets and have been doing research on CSA's.

Rutabagas - wouldn't even know what to do with them. Thank you for giving me an option! The sweetness from the vegetables and the "buttery" flavors you describe will partner very well with a white wine from the Rhone in the South of France. I was just at a Chateauneuf du Pape seminar yesterday, so I have Rhone on the brain. And, Rhone whites are among my favorite wines. I love the richness and depth of the wines, the creamy mouthfeel and intense aromatics. The whites I tasted yesterday were from the highly touted 2007 vintage. The wines showed absolutely beautifully.

The varietals used for Rhone whites are Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier, and Grenache Blanc. Nuts, honeysuckle, citrus, spice and tropical fruit are flavors you will experience enjoying these wines. I just adore the depth and complexity of these wines. As the vegetables used in this recipe are full-flavored veggies, I would go with a full-flavored wine. I think the flavors in this dish would overpower a lighter style of wine. The richness of the wine will pair perfectly with the bigger flavors in Deb's recipe.

If you are unfamiliar with Rhone whites, I highly recommend giving them a shot. You won't be disappointed. Start off with something simple and inexpensive, and look for wines produced by E. Guigal or Perrin et fils. The wines by these producers should not be hard to find.

making the best of it

Deborah
All thoughts of dining al fresco anytime soon have flown out the window. The long haul of winter just seems to be getting longer each day.

We still need to eat, drink and be merry, don't we?  A season defying hors d'oeuvre that I love is something I call Moroccan Couscous Rolls. They are a play on the classic stuffed grape leaves. The difference is I use collard greens for the wrap and seasoned couscous for the filling. The rolls are served with a fruity sweet and sour glaze. As is my style, I rarely make this exactly the same way twice. Instead I improvise from a basic plan and taste everything as I go to create a balanced flavor that has some character.

Collard greens are perfect for this dish because they are large, cook quickly in boiling water, and hold their shape when tender. They give the rolls structure and a fresh mild green taste. After blanching till tender, I will carefully run a knife along the rib of each leaf to remove the raised section so they will lay flat. This is a bit time consuming and requires a little attention with a steady hand, but it is not difficult to achieve.

For the filling I mix steamed couscous with pine nuts, chopped mint, currents, a dash of cinnamon and a plop of mayonnaise to keep everything together. The variations on what to add are endless. One of my favorite additions is pomegranate seeds, for color and a pop of juiciness.

The glaze is simply some fruit jelly melted down with a little splash of vinegar, salt and lemon juice. I just keep tasting this mixture as it cooks to get the right balance of flavors. I aim for a pronounced tart fruitiness that is not overly sweet.

Ikea's Lingonberry preserves is one of my favorites. It has the deep fruity flavor I am going for and a tiny hint of bitterness to keep it interesting.

Wrapping the rolls is fairly simple once you get the hang of it. Lay a leaf out flat, put about a teaspoon of filling in the center, fold the two sides in as flaps, then fold up the bottom flap to cover the filling, and roll up toward the top. It does require nimble fingers and a bit of experimenting to get your technique down, but it is easily mastered.

The collard leaves can be blanched the day before and stored in a stack, wrapped in plastic in the fridge till you are ready to begin rolling. The finished rolls can be made hours in advance and chilled in the fridge before serving. I like them a little bit cold, it adds to the freshness as you bite into them.

These little cuties are great with other hors d'oeuvres, especially heavier items that might be fried or cheesy, as they lend a light counterpoint to the spread. They are also really good the next day when you are grazing in front of the fridge looking for a tasty leftover nibble.

Any wine suggestions Amanda?

Amanda
Wow! This really looks like such a fun, festive dish! It's beautiful! I would love to give this a shot, and I think I will. However, something tells me mine might not come out as exquisite and lovely as Deb's! Love this recipe for the Spring! In fact, I am so excited about my wine selection for this dish! As Spring approaches, I crave Rose. And everything about this recipe just calls out for a juicy, lush Rose with hints of spice! The spice and berry fruit flavors of the wine are perfect for the combination of cinnamon and mint flavors of the cous cous, as well as the fruit preserves. Yum Yum!

Belle Glos makes a delightful Rose - the Oeil de Perdrix Pinot Noir Blanc. (Oeil de Perdrix is French for eye of the partridge) It is rich and full-bodied, with bold berry flavors. I envision sipping this wine while enjoying Deb's Moroccan Cous Cous Rolls on a warm Sunday afternoon! Makes me extremely eager for Spring to arrive! This food-friendly Rose retails for around $16.99.

I have also mentioned the Crios Rose of Malbec before, made by one of my favorite producers, Susana Balbo in Argentina. A lovely bouquet of fresh berries delights the nose, while flavors of cherries, strawberries and spice dance on the palate! I adore this wine! I couldn't think of the more perfect wines for this recipe! Balbo's Crios line (all delicious) can be found for around $14.99.

I would also recommend pairing a sparkling Rose, something inexpensive would work just fine. The Chandon Brut Rose from California  sells for around $16.99. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir, this is a creamy, fruit forward sparkler which is the perfect addition to any Springtime get-together!

Can't wait to test out this dish (and of course, the wine to go with it!)

stir crazy

Deborah
We are in the home stretch here for Winter. That's what I'm trying to tell myself at any rate. In fact it will still be weeks before the Green Markets in NYC are showing any new produce. Hang in there! It will be worth the wait when the first lettuces and chives and radishes hit the market.

Until then...
Looking at the same old stuff and in an effort to generate some excitement I try to shake things up with a little knife action. I want to make a very simple vegetable dish that is pretty and flavorful enough to combat the end of winter blues.

The idea is to chop the vegetables small, into what I call a rough julienne cut, then quickly blanch them. For the next step you toss everything together in a pan with seasoned oil and thats it!

Cut everything relatively the same size, narrow strips on an angle. Blanch each vegetable in salted boiling water for one or two minutes until tender but still crunchy. I like to blanch each type of vegetable separately because a carrot will be done in 30 seconds while a green bean can take two minutes. This way all the vegetables are cooked to their perfect doneness. I use one large pot of boiling water and fish out each batch of the cooked vegetables with a spider before dropping the next batch in.

My beloved spider, purchased in Chinatown years ago.

To make the seasoned oil: Finely mince as much garlic as you like and saute briefly in olive oil and/or butter. Add chopped fresh herbs and any other seasoning you are in the mood for. I had some fresh thyme on hand. Then add all the vegetables into the pan and toss to coat with the seasonings. Serve right away. The vegetables will have some crunch and a savory goodness. 

This technique accomplishes a few things: you can combine odds and ends of vegetables and season them any way you like AND it makes everything seem new again (well a little anyway.)

Amanda what are we going to sip with this spirit-lifting solution to a cold drab day?

Amanda
Sauvignon Blanc is the way to go. To be more specific, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. When grown in NZ, the grape exhibits a grassy, herbaceous, vegetal character. It's also been known to display aromas of asparagus. Because of its herb-nuanced flavor, it is a perfect match for vegetables in general (especially green vegetables). Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand are extremely crisp and lively, which will help "lift the spirit" on a cold, dreary day! 

Kono Sauvignon Blanc is a good choice at $9.99 per bottle. The wine comes from the cooler region of Marlborough, which results in a wine full of citrus, gooseberry and stonefruit flavors. (Sauvignon Blancs from warmer climates have more richness of fruit). 

Also look to the Loire Valley in France for some wonderful Sauvignon Blanc options. A favorite producer is Pascal Jolivet. Also, be sure to pick out a recent vintage. Jolivet's Sancerres are typically youthful and racy with great balance and elegance.


I agree with Deb - I am so ready for Spring! This recipe and wine pairing is ideal to "set the mood" for the impending warmer weather! I am in a Springtime State of Mind!

all you need is love

Deborah
Transitioning between two cooking zones- from brisk, sunny Florida to icy-grey New York.
Our delayed flight gave me ample time to finish the book I was glued to Just Kids, the memoir by Patti Smith about her early days as a young struggling artist in NY City and her creative partnership with photographer Robert Mapplethorpe. I am a huge Patti fan so I was presold on her message, but the book is truly great. Smith really captures the creative experience from inspiration to realization. The struggle for young artists to break through with their art and gain recognition is huge. Her book is a moving tribute to her late friend Mapplethorpe who shared with her his passionate commitment to their artistic pursuits. And at times it seems they lived on nothing but that loving commitment.

Why am I going on about this? I guess it got me thinking about inspiration and love. I came upon this little comment on a facebook post yesterday. It is a recipe by cookbook writer Denise Landis.

Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Sherry-Butter Glaze, by Denise Landis: Trim sprouts but otherwise leave whole. (If they are large, cut a shallow X in the bottom of each one.) Melt a generous amount butter, add brussels sprouts, stir until lightly browned all over. Add chopped toasted pecans and toss for a minute, then throw in a generous splash of sherry (dry or cream...I like the sweetness of cream sherry). Immediately cover, turn heat to low, and cook just until sprouts are tender in the center but not overcooked (don't let them turn gray!). Serve hot. But honestly, I eat them straight from the fridge, cold, the next day...


Denise and I attended the same High School. I just love the way she wrote this recipe, so simple and so obviously filled with love for cooking. Maybe I am still coming off a Valentine's day high, but I am feeling all gooey for passion and the commitment to doing things we care about deeply.


My lovely and brilliant friend Ali sent me a photo today of her weekend spent in the kitchen with her husband and a group of friends cooking up a storm. They included my pumpkin ravioli and a few other recipes I have made with Ali. Her joy at trying something new was infectious  and I asked her to allow me to share the photo:

The beautiful Ali in red.

As I am writing this I am stuffing my face with Brussels Sprouts. As usual I strayed a bit from the instructions. I happened to have the oven on at 425 degrees so the sprouts cooked in there rather than pan roasting. The pecans were left whole rather than chopped and I didn't have any sherry so cognac was substituted. The sprouts cooked up in about 15 minutes and are DELICIOUS!!! Denise is really on to something here. So good and there will be none left for me to eat cold tomorrow!

Amanda
I LOVE Brussel Sprouts! And I am going to make this one tomorrow. It is right up my alley! Though I have to admit, the wine pairing had me stumped. Brussel Sprouts are extremely hard to pair with wine and I really couldn't come up with anything that seemed appealing to me. So I thought, and I thought, and came up with what I think would be a wonderful idea for an impromptu get-together with friends!
Tapas restaurants are "in" these days, popping up all over the place. And, Sherry is of course an obvious staple at these establishments. I envision a night of tapas at my home - olives, cheese, almonds, Denise's Brussel Sprouts, among other delicacies - paired with a variety of Sherries. Especially this time of year. A lit fireplace, friends, and delicious, simple fare, and of course Sherry, sounds like the perfect night to me.
A Sherry would be the natural match to the Sherry and pecans in this recipe. Right now, I have an open bottle of Alvear Carlos VII Amontillado Sherry which I have enjoyed sipping these cold winter nights. This is what I'll use for the Brussel Sprouts tomorrow night, and sip it alongside the dish! I am predicting a winning match!
For those of you unfamiliar with Sherry, Amontillado is an aged Fino, and can be dry or off-dry (a little sweet). The Carlos VII is dry, and is light chestnut in color. It has a wonderful bouquet, and a nutty flavor with hints of fig.  A 500ml bottle will run around $20. 


note from Deb- Sherry seems like the obvious and excellent choice as it is 
called for in the recipe. I really want to make this one again (and again!)
and I  will use sherry next time (although the cognac was fantastic). 
Amanda you will LOVE the sprouts. I went to bed last night craving more!

better than snow shoveling

The wind is howling and the temperature has dropped. Yes, I am in Florida on a winter break, hahaha! I am not complaining. We are guests in my mother-in-laws beautiful home overlooking Sarasota Bay. I can see pelicans and herons soaring past the large plate glass window looking for their breakfast in wind whipped water. Peace and tranquility abounds.

A windy walk on the beach. The air temperatures barely brushed the low 50s.

For me the big event of the trip is a visit to the Saturday farmer's market. I have to say that Sarasota is a little loose in their definition of farmer's market. It is really more of an outdoor produce market. Much of what is sold comes from as far as California. I am not sure that the concept of local produce has been grasped here. As a shopper you have to pay attention to what each vendor is selling and ask where it comes from. I even came across the ubiquitous garlic from China. Seriously.

The sights and sounds of beautiful fruit and vegetables managed to sooth my cranky soul and I sent the kids forth to gather the ingredients for tomato salsa, a task they readily complied with as this is one of their most favorite treats. I taught them this recipe years ago and it has become a fun group project with the big payoff, typical of kitchen activities, that we get to eat our efforts!

Which brings me to this video of chef Jamie Oliver talking about the state of our collective eating habits in this country. The video was brought to my attention in a post from blogger, cook book writer and famed Long Island City dinner party hostess Zora O'Neill. Thank you, Zora.
Oliver is blunt in his assesment, to say the least. AND I have always found him to be way too fond of his own pretty face which he plasters on everything that passes through his hands. None-the-less, his message is a good one and stimulates plenty of thought. Teaching our children to cook is a very worthy endeavor and I have to admit that for all my home cooking, my kids could learn a few more lessons by the stove. I compiled a list of foods they knew how to cook by themselves at a young age and I see they certainly could survive on it, perhaps not thrive. So my mission is to encourage us all to teach our survive and thrive skills to those we love.

10 FOODS MY KIDS COULD COOK THEMSELVES by the age of 10

French Toast

Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Salsa

Quesadillas

Guacamole

Pasta with cheese and peas

Tuna salad sandwich

Scrambled eggs

Green Salad

Spaghetti and Tomato Sauce

Ok, lets get back to salsa- fun and easy to make, it turns any occassion into a party. We are talking basically a big wet salad made from fresh ingredients. Even vegetable haters love it. Show the kids how to make this and they will party for life!

After you finish this life lesson you may want to relax and sip some wine while nibbling on whatever salsa the kids leave in the bowl, which probably won't be much. Amanda, does any wine pairing come to mind for Tomato Salsa?

Tomato Salsa
1 large tomato finely chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, minced
1/4 cup onion, finely chopped
3 Tbs. cilantro, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
Juice of 1 lime
Place all ingredients in a bowl and allow to marinate for 15 minutes before serving.

Amanda
Love this post, Deb! Let me first say that I can only hope that by age 10 my children are eating tuna salad, guacamole and peas. Not in their repertoire as of yet, at ages 6 and 4. But as my husband and I love all things food, I am praying my children will follow suit. I feel fortunate that I am married to a culinary graduate, and it would be a wonderful pleasure should my kids inherit his culinary talents! Currently, my kids can fix their own breakfast as long as it's candy and is within their reach. (Even if it's not within their reach, they will go to great lengths to get it). Yesterday morning, I tried to "sleep in" a little. At 9:15 am I went downstairs to find my son, chocolate lollipop in hand (and on face), and my daughter holding a box of gumdrops in one hand and 3 tootsie roll pops in the other. Yes, I do have to start working on their culinary skills.


Well, this recipe is making me crave salsa and chips! I usually take the easy way out and purchase "home-made" salsa from Whole Foods, or Kings. I think it's time I made my own. But to answer Deb's question - yes! A wine pairing absolutely comes to mind! When I think of salsa, I immediately think of a crisp, lively, refreshing white. While this is the sort of wine I'd be more apt to drink in the warmer weather, I can't think of anything I'd enjoy more with this fresh, bright salsa.


Albarino would be my first choice for this recipe. This white varietal is grown primarily in Galicia, in northwest Spain. The Rias Baixas DO is particularly known for producing a significant amount of this grape. Albarinos typically are very aromatic, and light, with ripe fruit flavors of apple, citrus fruit and peach. The wines are crisp with lively, bright acidity.

Bodegas Martin Codax is known for making wonderful Albarinos. The 2008 Burgans Albarino from Bodegas Martin Codax is one of my favorite everyday white wines. (when purchasing an Albarino, always be sure to get one from a recent vintage - the wines do not age well.  Younger is better). The Burgans is fruity and complex with great balance - and a great value at $12.99.


I am having a "mom's night out" at my home on March 19th, to welcome Spring. I have been thinking of the menu. Now I have one more recipe to add! Thanks, Deb!

a snow story

Deborah
Snow day. Despite the travel inconveniences and the SHOVELING, it forces us to slow down and that can be a good thing. The day at home got me looking around for a little splash of brightness to break up all that white.

Even the vegetables I had on hand were white.

No point looking out back for flavor, my herb garden is buried.

A gift from a friend who had just returned from California would do the trick.

These juicy, thin skinned lemons are always welcome in the kitchen. They will bring a happy zing to just about every dish. I like to add them to the roasting pan to caramelize with other vegetables. Today I chopped up one of the lemons and some cauliflower and tossed everything with a pinch of curry powder and enough olive oil to coat the vegetables.

Mario Battali's rustic Italian cooking inspired me to start using the green leaves of the cauliflower as well as the florets. The cauliflower roasts at 400 degrees for about 20 minutes.

The lemons add a tart sweetness and a bit of color to the vegetables. This is a simple pleasure for a slow, cold day. Save a slice for your tea and snuggle down to watch the snow fall. 

Amanda

Well, this is a tough one, I must admit! Probably because Deb's cup of tea looks like that would be the perfect match to this comforting dish. It just looks so satisfying sitting there alongside the cauliflower. I never thought of using the cauliflower greens - I must try that! I didn't even know they were edible! I guess that's why I'm the wine writer and Deb's the chef.

Deb's is a simple, beautiful dish. So, I am going to suggest something equally simple and delightful for the wine - Vinho Verde from Portugal. Typically low in alcohol content, this is the way to go. And, what makes it even better is it's incredibly inexpensive pricetag! Vinho Verde can typically be found for $6-$10.

These crisp, aromatic wines come from the Vinho Verde region of Portugal, and are really known as Portugal's best whites. Made from the Alvarinho (Spain's Albarino), they typically display flavors of citrus fruit and green apple, and are slightly effervescent. Vinho Verdes pair particularly well with salads too. Be sure to drink these wines if you buy them, and don't hold onto them. They are specifically made for early drinking. In fact, "Vinho Verde" means "green wine", a reference to the wine's youth.

The lemon in Deb's dish will bring out the best in the wine - the clean, fresh, crisp flavors. This is a match made in heaven! (Next to Deb's cup of tea with a slice of lemon!)

back to beans

Deborah
The working title of this post was "Bleak House," but that just seemed well, too bleak. Late January leaves one scrounging around for ways to lift the spirits. Even my vase arrangements consist of bare twigs. If I am lucky they will slowly bud and I will get a tiny taste of things to come.

The wind and rain this week provided an abundance of broken tree branches to bring indoors for forcing.

Scrounging was the theme of the day as I looked in my fridge for something to cook. Cooking often means always having an assortment of leftover odds and ends to choose from. Today's pick was a bit of sauteed spinach, some cooked quinoa and a handful of chickpeas. Amanda had expressed interest in a bean burger post so I thought why not? These three items could make a good meal and if I added some spices it might be even delicious.

Leftover ingredients can lend themselves to beautiful new creations in the kitchen.

Spice mixtures are a great way to perk up simple ingredients. They are also a great way to add versatility without having to buy and blend all the separate spices yourself. These premixed blends are also a simple way to sample the flavor base of another cuisine. When I travel I always look for culinary items that express the region I have visited. Curry powder and Herbs de Provence are two examples of spice blends that reflect a specific culinary culture.  Don't overlook airports as a great place to pick up local food items if you haven't already grabbed some during your stay.

This Caribbean spice blend added some warmth to a cold day.

Today, for my chickpea and quinoa burgers, I pulled out some Island Creole Seasoning I found at the St. John Spice store when I was in St. John, US Virgin Islands last year. The blend consists of salt, cayenne pepper, thyme, marjoram, garlic, onions and bay leaf. What would have taken me several minutes to assemble myself was immediately at hand in this blend. The bean patties took me 15 minutes to prepare from start to finish. AND they came out sooooooooo good. I often wonder if the mere act of pan frying makes everything delicious. Well it certainly doesn't hurt!

Because all the ingredients are already cooked, the patties only need a few minutes of pan frying.

These patties had a nice texture due to the quinoa- very light and almost fluffy. The spinach added some color and a little depth, but no pronounced bitterness. You could serve this to a non-spinach eating person and they would probably not notice or mind. The chickpeas served as a hearty, nutty-flavored base for the whole thing.

Quinoa, a whole grain found in most supermarkets and health food stores cooks like rice in 20 minutes.

I would not expect most people to have this particular combination of leftovers available at any given time. The point here is to allow things to happen in the kitchen.  Beans + Veg + Starch + Spice. A simple formula that can have happy, easy and QUICK dining results!

Chickpea, Quinoa & Spinach Burgers
1 cup of cooked chickpeas
1/2 cup cooked spinach, squeezed of excess liquid and chopped
1 cup of cooked quinoa
1/4 cup grated onion
1 teaspoon of a spice blend of your choice
1 egg
3 Tbs. flour

for frying- 2 Tbs. canola oil

Roughly mash the chickpeas with a potato masher. To the chickpeas add the rest of the ingredients and blend well with a spoon. Divide into burger shapes. Heat the frying oil and when hot, pan-fry the patties for 3 minutes on each side.

serves 2

Amanda
Before getting into what I already have in mind for the wine, I want to quickly comment on the Arame dish from our last post. Deb's recipe was easy and outstanding! I am now addicted to this dish and in fact, I'm going to run to the store after work to stock up on Arame so I can make a big batch! (I wonder if it's possible to eat too much Arame?) Love it! Can honestly say Deb's dish is one of my favorite new recipes!

Now - onto the Chickpea burgers - again, seems straightforward, healthy, and has ingredients typically on hand. Love that combination! I want a wine with good fruit, but an earthy quality as well. I personally want red with these burgers. I want something simple, yet elegant, not something overly complex or intense. Just an everyday red that I can enjoy next to a casual meal. One of my favorite red wines is the Chateau Pesquie Cuvee Terrasses. The 2008 vintage just arrived and it promises to be as delicious as the past vintages. For $11.99 (and consistently highly-rated) this is the quintessential everyday wine. It is soft, with red and black fruit flavors and a hint of spice. The fruit is lush. Hailing from the Cote de Ventoux region of the Rhone Valley, the wine is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah.


If you are using Indian spices, Caribbean spices, or what have you, the wine should be a great match. I love the idea of some "stronger" spices with this wine. The thought of a combination of Indian spices, for example, enjoyed in conjuction with some kind of fruit side, like a mango chutney, causes me to salivate. So it is with this wine. The spices in the burgers combined with the beautiful fruit-forwardness of the wine should work famously together!


Also remember, you don't have to go find this exact wine! (Though it is worth seeking out!). You can go into your friendly neighborhood wine shop and ask for their recommendations on a wine from the Cote du Ventoux- or ask for a grenache/syrah blend. Wines from this region, or of this type of blend, in general will work just as well!

Surprise Hit

Deborah
Racing through the supermarket yesterday looking for food to feed my family I plopped a big bag of green beans onto the check-out counter. When I got home and unpacked the food I had to ask myself what was I thinking? Green beans are no good this time of year. And with no exception, this batch was lumpy and somewhat limp, a sure sign of age. As Billie Holiday sings in the opening refrain to A Foggy Day- "I had a feeling of self pity. What to do, what to do, what to do?" The only appealing choice was to deep fry the beans to bring out their flavor and try to compensate for their texture. Blanching or steaming would only accentuate the flaws, creating a rubbery, bland and very uninteresting bean.

With careful sorting and trimming I managed to rescue a reasonable pile of beans. Next, I set up my wok for deep frying. Woks are a great tool for this. Their wide shape and deep sloping sides make manipulating frying foods easy. I wanted to use only a cup of canola oil so I had to fry in small batches.

It took no more than three minutes of frying each batch and the beans came out great! The color perked up and the natural nutty flavor became pronounced. I would happily eat them this way with a little salt, but I wanted to take it a little further.

Chopped ginger, sliced scallions and some dried chilies become the aromatics for this dish.

After pouring the hot oil out of the wok I briefly sauteed some aromatics and tossed the beans back in. I had some homemade sesame paste on hand so I tossed a spoonful on top of the beans, added a splash of rice vinegar and heated everything through.

Pity no more! Did this taste good! The aromatics delivered some punch and the sesame paste created depth. I would consider this a hit and even allow another out-of-season bag of beans to find their way home with me again.

Sesame Paste

-I came across this recipe recently published in the NY Times as part of a larger recipe.  The paste is  really versatile and can be added to many dishes adding a nutty sweet/salty flavor.

Toast 6 Tbs. sesame seeds in a dry pan for 2-3 minutes till they slightly change color. Put in a spice grinder and grind into a  powder. Put this powder into a food processor and add 1/2 cup more sesame seeds, 1/4 cup soy sauce and 2 Tbs. sugar. Process into a paste. The paste will store well in the fridge for several weeks.


Amanda
Wow! This looks so awesome and pretty straightfoward! And green beans are one of the few vegetables my husband will eat! Perfect! As is the case in pairing veggies with wine, always remember to pair the wine to the sauce or seasonings, not the veggie itself. Certain wines just work so unbelievably well with Asian flavors - Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc. But at the wine shop, we've been promoting one Pinot Gris in particular, and it therefore is jumping out at me as the perfect wine for this dish.

It is the Domaine Alfred Chamisal Vineyards Pinot Gris 2007. For those of you unfamiliar with this varietal, it is the same as Pinot Grigio - just goes by a different name in this part of the world. And, it is stylistically very different depending upon it's homeland. In Italy, Pinot Grigio is leaner and crisper. In places like Oregon, California and Germany, the wine is typically fuller bodied with a wonderful oily, creamy texture - exactly what I look for in a white. It is delicious - rich with flavors of peach, fig and elements of spice.


Pinot Gris is also incredibly versatile when it comes to food. It is marvelous when paired with highly spiced foods, but will also be fine next to more delicate flavors. It has a great deal of fruit and the pairings are endless! When dining on Thai, Mexican, or Asian cuisine, be sure to consider this fun, affordable varietal.
Domaine Alfred is located in the Edna Valley in California. They also make terrific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as well. The Pinot Gris can be found for $11.99. A true bargain!

Good friends Good food

Winter entertaining has a completely different rhythm than summer parties. The warm summer months are great for spontaneous gatherings that can flow outdoors, last minute salads tossed together and lots of fresh ingredients coming off the grill.
Things really slow down in the winter. It is a time for more intimate occasions and a little more thought must go into the planning. Winter is the perfect time to make food well in advance. Slow cooked recipes are great to make the day before a party, allowing all the flavors set-up and deepen. That frees you up to address other party planning issues like table setting and decor.

Setting up a self service wine bar will make hosting easier.

Winter is the time to pull out the good china if you have any.  Why not use some of those precious things you would not consider bringing outdoors. Sometimes I have a party just to use a special bowl that I end up planning a menu around. These are not quick tips. Cooking and entertaining are a lot of work and there is no getting around it. The idea is to make the work pleasurable. Use your prettiest dishes, who cares if your set does not match?  My dessert plates are a complete mishmash of everything from fine Limoge porcelain to a cherished plastic Batman plate.

I don't think twice about presenting them at the table together (especially by dessert time when everyone is full, happy and a little tipsy perhaps!).

Recently tried recipes have worked really well for me this winter. The collard greens and black-eyed peas were VERY good the next day when I served them. The color was dulled down, but the flavor was UP UP UP.  It emerged from the pot rich and deep and very satisfying.
The butternut squash soup with chilies and green apple also improved overnight. One guest commented that the flavor wanted to get sweet, but then pulled back to spicy. That is the kind of complexity in a dish that you are going for.

Part of the fun of a dinner party is trying different wines.

Olga's raw kale salad is another dish that needs to be made in advance. Full disclosure here. I tried to make this salad and was still perplexed by the results. I asked a few friends to sample my efforts and the responses ran the gamut from yeah to nay. My conclusion is that it will definitely appeal to some and perhaps not so much for others. I suspect that Olga's own version is far superior to mine, so I will leave it to her, with much appreciation for her contribution!

Here is what I did:

The acid bath- I used my purple basil vinegar, some dried chilies, garlic cloves and coriander seeds and sweetened it with some simple syrup. I heated this in a small pot for a few minutes to develop the flavors.

The hardware- Chopped kale, sliced cukes, sundried tomatoes, sliced lemons, mint, & arugula. The cucumbers tasted great but the kale remained chewy even after four days of marinating.

Entertaining friends and family is the sweet part of life. Don't be afraid to take on a dinner party or two this winter. People LOVE to be cooked for and it is such a nice way for us to slow down and savor our blessings.