in praise of scallions

The tangle of long green tresses just screamed Rapunzel. I had come upon a huge, beautiful bunch of scallions at a farmers market in Florida not long ago, the roots grown together in a matted mass with dirt still clinging to them. What a nice find! I immediately wanted to throw the entire bunch onto a charcoal grill and singe those long oniony locks with grill marks.

 This is a much depleted portion of the original bunch. Most supermarkets trim the tops of scallions so they make a neater package. I love the unruliness of the wilder state.

Scallions are genius.  They hold no glamor in the culinary world, but their versatility and resiliency under just about any cooking technique make them a must have in the kitchen. Throw them in to just about any savory dish and they add a freshness with their gentle bite and bright color. Slice them thin, the perfect round shape is instant eye candy and make a cheery garnish.  Use them raw in a simple green salad to add complexity. Put a single, slender bulb into a blender with oil, vinegar and salt for a salad dressing with a touch of attitude. A scallion or two in scrambled eggs will redefine your breakfast.

Sliced scallions look great on top of just about anything, even my wobbly hand made plate.

Cook them until wilted and add to vegetables, grains, soups, anything!  I rely on scallions to bring an immediacy to meals made from pantry staples like rice and beans.  Sauteed with oil or butter, a handful of scallions will make a satisfying topping for pasta.
Scallions are inexpensive, they easily keep for upwards of two weeks when stored in the fridge and the mild oniony flavor is always welcome. Many recipes call for using only the white part of a scallion, but I use the whole thing, and actually prefer the tender green tops to the white, fleshier bottom.
A bunch of scallions will get you through a long winter and are one of my most dependable ingredients.


Over the summer I took a pottery class at Brick House ceramic art center in Long Island City, an efficiently run studio with a friendly, un-intimidating atmosphere. The knowledgeable instructors at Brick House encouraged us all to be free to create our hearts desire. I compulsively began making serving dishes and bowls featuring undulating scalloped edges. My handbuilding skills are truly rudimentary, but I got deeply engrossed in the process of shaping the wet clay between my fingers and allowing my very relaxed mind to dictate the direction of the creation. The vessels ended up looking like variations of wavy lumps, but I am hooked and can't wait to take class again next summer.

 SPICY CHICKPEAS WITH CHERRY TOMATOES

RECIPE: This is a simple combination of sauteed onions and zucchini with a handful of chickpeas and cherry tomatoes bound together with a dollop of tomato sauce (plopped into the center of one of my handmade bowls.) Simmer for a few minutes to meld the flavors and add a large dash of hot sauce and a sprinkle of sliced scallions to bring up the heat.

The Real Deal

Amanda
It is entirely possible that pizza just might be my favorite food. I always had the inkling it was. My suspicions were confirmed about two weeks ago. I had the good fortune to get involved with a grilled pizza-making "class" which came about quite unexpectedly. One of our customers (and now friend) at Wine and Spirit world has a reputation for creating authentic, exquisite pizzas that are so perfect they are hard to describe. As part of a silent auction for the Franklin Lakes Education Foundation in New Jersey, John Gonzalez, along with some friends, donated a fabulous night of pizza making, wine, and osso bucco which was purchased by 5 couples and went for $1,000. John and his wife Sandy, and 2 other couples prepared everything themselves. The night consisted of a pizza making demonstration given by John, a wine tasting coordinated by John and myself, and a fabulous dinner prepared by one of the other couples involved. All aspects of the night were created, donated, organized, and served by the three couples who donated the package. They did everything from soup to nuts and it was truly a fabulous evening.

John came into Wine and Spirit World several days before the event, asking for recommendations on wines that were on the inexpensive side, but tasted like more high-end offerings. This idea was intended to prove that you don't have to spend a lot of money to get wines of superior quality. And that's where I came in. After selecting about 6 wines that I thought would impress his guests, John invited me to participate in the event. I attended, and as a result, had the good fortune to get a lesson in making what I consider to be one of the world's most perfect foods.

John giving the group a lesson in dough-making 

Using the indoor grill at one of the participating couples' homes, John wowed the group with his pizza making expertise. He uses black garlic (fermented garlic) on his pizza which just brings the flavors to an entirely new level. I have to say he made the process look painfully simple, though I have yet to try it and have to think it's not as easy as it looks. His crust is cracker thin and the finished product offers the perfect crunch combined with the delectable flavors of San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, fresh Pecorino Romano and Fontina, fresh basil and fresh parsley (the herbs come from his own garden). Watching him, one would guess he could do this with his eyes closed. I consider myself to be somewhat of a pizza snob, and I have to say that John's pies rank among the best I've tasted.

One of my latest addictions is grilled fennel. I would love to try some atop John's pizza!

Patience is key. Let the underside cook sufficiently before flipping and adding the toppings.

Usually when I recommend wines to go with pizza, I tend to suggest reds (like Sangiovese) in a lower-end price range. While an everyday Chianti would be fine next to John's pizzas, I personally would opt to enjoy something a little more special. They are that good!

Viola! A work of art!

John G's Grilled Pizza Margherita
(Adapted from Al Forno's in Providence, RI)

For the dough:
1 envelope (2 1/2 tsps) active dry yeast
1 cup warm water
Pinch sugar
1 tsp Kosher salt
1/4 cup stone ground corn meal or polenta
1/4 cup whole-wheat flour
1 tbsp virgin olive oil
2 1/2 to 3 1/2 cups unbleached white flour

Topping:
Extra virgin olive oil
2 cups grated fresh mozzarella
1 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
2 cups shredded Fontina cheese (not aged or smoked)
4 1/2 cups chopped canned tomatoes (San Marzano DOP's are the best)
3 scallions, chopped and sliced thinly
4 cloves fresh garlic, chopped fine (or fermented black garlic)
3/4 cup chopped Italian flat-leafed parsley
Chiffonade of basil for garnish
Salt, pepper, red pepper flakes to taste

1. Dissolve the yeast in warm water with the sugar.
2. After 5 minutes stir in the salt, corn meal, whole-wheat flour, and oil.
3. Gradually add the white flour, stirring with a wooden spoon until a stiff dough has formed.
4. Place the dough on a floured board, and knead it for several minutes, adding only enough additional flour to keep the dough from sticking. When the dough is smooth and shiny, transfer it to a bowl that has been brushed with olive oil. To prevent a skin from forming, brush the top of the dough with additional olive oil, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place, away from drafts, until doubled in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Punch down the dough and knead once more. Let the dough rise again for about 40 minutes. Punch down the dough. If it is sticky, knead in a bit more flour.
5. Divide into 6 balls.  Cover the balls with plastic wrap and allow to rise at room temperature for about 45 minutes.
6. While the dough is rising, prepare a hot charcoal fire, setting the grill rack 3 to 4 inches above the coals and set out topping ingredients. If using a gas grill, warm it up.
7. Place a ball of dough on a flat surface. Mold it into a round shape, then with a rolling pin, spread and flatten the dough into a 10 to 12-inch rectangle, 1/8-inch thick; the shape is unimportant. Take care not to stretch the dough so thin that small holes appear. If this happens, all is not lost. Rather than try to repair them, avoid them when adding toppings and drizzling with olive oil.
8. When the fire is hot, brush olive oil onto one side of the dough, and using your fingertips lift the dough gently by the two corners closest to you, and drape it onto the grill, oiled side down. Once it's in place, brush olive oil onto the second side. Within a minute, the dough will puff slightly, the underside will stiffen, and grill marks will appear.
9. Once the underside is well grilled, use tongs to flip the crust over onto the coolest part of the grill. Quickly brush the grilled surface with 2 tsps of virgin olive oil.
10. Spread 1/2 cup or more of the cheese mixture over the entire surface of the pizza.
11. Dollop with 8 to 10 tbsps of the tomatoes.
12. Top with parsley, scallions, garlic, salt, pepper, red pepper and anything else you desire.
13. Drizzle the entire pizza with extra virgin olive oil.
14. After the toppings have been added, slide the pizza back toward the hot coals so about half of the pizza is directly over the heat. Rotate the pizza frequently so that different sections receive high heat checking the underside by lifting the edge with tongs to be sure it is not burning.
15. The pizza is done when the top is bubbling and the cheese has melted. Garnish with basil and serve immediately. Use a pizza cutter to slice irregular pieces...and enjoy!

herbs and rice

Deborah
This spring already feels like mid-summer. Ninety degrees today!? My herb garden is in full flourish and perfect for the picking.

Large handfuls of fresh chopped herbs are going in to everything I cook on these warm days.

A dear friend recently took me on a shopping trip to the Korean supermarket H Mart on Union Street in Flushing Queens. What a treasure trove of edible goodies! I had never been to a store quite like it. There was an entire wall display devoted to kimchee (natch) and spicy pickles in every imaginable and unimaginable variety. I was in awe. There were walls of shelves devoted to single items like varieties of soy bean paste and another for just sea salt! Too fantastic. I left with my arms loaded. One of the treasures I lugged home was this bag of organic short grain brown rice. 

The plastic package resembled rice paper. Who could resist such cuteness?

Brown rice seemed like the perfect vehicle for some fresh herbs so I made a salad. Brown rice salad usually steers my inspiration towards the direction of sweetness, with lots of dried fruit, but this time I wanted to do something lemony and fresh that would feature herbs and some vegetables. 

There were three varieties of brown rice in this blend (all from California, not Korea): Organic Brown Rice, Organic Sweet Brown Rice, Organic Black Rice. 

This brown rice salad can be made in advance and brought on a picnic. I am going to share it with friends tomorrow at the Belmont Stakes race. I hope it doesn't rain.

Brown Rice Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette

1 quart water

3 Tbs. salt

1/2 cup green beans cut into bite sized pieces

1/2 cup zucchini cut into a small dice

1 cup of Brown Rice

3 Tbs. chopped herbs (parsley, mint, basil, oregano, marjoram, chives)

1/4 cup toasted nuts (almond, cashew, walnut, pine)

1/4 cup currents

2 scallions, minced

Juice of 1/2 lemon

zest of 1/2 lemon

4 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil

Bring water to a boil and add salt. Blanch the green beans in the boiling water till tender- 5 minutes. Lift beans out of boiling water with a slotted spoon. Add the zucchini to the water and boil for 1 minute, to get the raw edge of but not cooked through, lift the zucchini out of the water and set aside with the green beans to cool (shock the vegetables in ice water if you like. I just run them under cold water for a few minutes to stop the cooking)

Add the brown rice to the water and cook at a rolling boil for 30-40 minutes until the rice is tender. Drain the cooked rice in a strainer and put it into a bowl with the green beans, zucchini, chopped herbs, toasted nuts, currents and scallions. Toss to combine ingredients, then add the lemon juice and lemon zest. Toss again. Add the olive oil and taste. Adjust seasonings.

Allow to rice to cool to room temp before refrigerating. Serve chilled or at room temp. Can be made the day before and stored in a covered container in the fridge.

Makes about 3 cups.

Amanda

Deb, you shared this recipe at the perfect time! I am currently undergoing my annual "body cleanse". My diet for the next two weeks consists of all things natural. Nothing processed,  or out of a box (rice is OK). Just veggies, fruits, brown rice, eggs...you get the picture. So far, so good. We just have to see now how I get by this weekend without any wine.

A great hot weather wine that would be perfect with this light, summery rice salad would be Vinho Verde from Portugal. This delightful white comes from the Minho region in the northern part of the county. Low in alcohol, it is a pleasure to sip on a hot afternoon. The name means "green wine" - not in reference to the color, but rather its youthfulness. It is made to be drunk within a year. While it cannot qualify as a "sparkling" wine, it does have a "fizziness" to it.

With its characteristic citrus/herbal flavors, it would be wonderful paired with Deb's brown rice recipe. The rice salad (but not the wine) will definitely be on my menu over the next two weeks!

stepping out

Deborah
When lilac blossoms appear on the trees (and show up as bouquets in the bodegas around NY) it is time to begin thinking about grilling. There are many ways to approach grilled vegetables, but as you may know, I like to keep things simple. Easy. Not too complicated. Grilling should be fun and a little primitive. You can't help but get a little messy and I always manage to lose a few pieces into the fire, no matter how careful I am.
Amanda and I would like to share some of our favorite grilled vegetable recipes over the next few weeks. As always, technique is key. Once you have that down inspiration can take over. Prepping the vegetables is really where the work is involved here. I like to slice raw vegetables, like carrots and zucchini, thin- about 3/4", so that they cook through quickly and evenly. Par-cooked vegetables can be cut thicker. Leafy heads of lettuce like escarole and radicchio can just be sliced in half, with the core intact to keep the leaves together.
I don't really marinate vegetables, just brush with olive oil and dust with herbs and spices, but I am not opposed to it. Just remember to dry off anything that is wet before you put it on the grill for best results.

A pan of vegetables all ready for the grill. I use the lemon half to scrub the hot grill clean and discard.

For this meal I pulled out what I had in the fridge, always a hodge-podge. I find potatoes cook best when par-boiled or microwaved till almost tender. The grill will give them a nice golden finish. Most vegetables are grilled raw. Asparagus can be thrown on whole and the cauliflower (which turned out to be DELICIOUS grilled) gets sliced into more or less even thickness without driving myself crazy measuring.

To determine doneness I aim for tenderness and a touch of color. For a long time I only grilled the traditional vegetables like carrots, zucchini, onions and peppers, but I am starting to expand my opinion on what works on the grill and will report here some of my new finds. The cauliflower was a revelation, for example, and I can't believe it took me this long to figure it out. 

A PARTIAL LIST of Vegetables to Grill 

Raw: carrots, tomatoes, zucchini, onions, cauliflower, mushrooms, scallions, radicchio, escarole, peppers, asparagus

Par-boiled or micro: potatoes, sweet potatoes, winter squashes, Brussels sprouts, leeks

Jury is still out on: broccoli, green beans

Have fun grilling and let us know what you think works.

Amanda
I am in love with my new grill. It's true. I clean it after every use, so it's shiny "newness" stays just that way. It's my new "baby". Right now I'm all about grilling vegetables. I grill anything "grillable". One comment on Deb's mention of green beans - delicious grilled, raw. A week or so ago, I followed a recipe in Andrea Chesman's wonderful new book, The New Vegetarian Grill: 250 Flame-Kissed Recipes for Fresh, Inspired Meals for grilled green beans. Basically, I tossed them in an Asian vinaigrette, and threw them on a vegetable grilling tray. I grilled them until a little brown. Then, I actually tossed them with some arugula and grilled shitakes, and drizzled a little of the vinaigrette on the finished product. I have to say, it was outstanding. Even my non-vegetable-eating husband thought they were delicious! They actually tasted like something from a Chinese restaurant!


I can't wait to elaborate more on some of the grilled recipes I've tried in future posts! But right now, I want to comment on wine. Unless there is a specific sauce or marinade you are using for your grilled veggies, you don't really need to think too much about what wine to drink. If there is a sauce or marinade, then what you choose will definitely require more thought.


During the summer, I  barbeque A LOT. I have my regular "go to" wines that I enjoy during barbeque season. For reds, Zinfandel never fails for grilled delights. Also - I never select expensive wines. Grilling demands inexpensive, "fun" wines - not overly complex or serious. For wonderful Zinfandel producers, check out Rosenblum or Seghesio. Ravenswood also carries a line of very inexpensive Zins. I also will look to Australia for some affordable Shiraz, or Grenache. D'Arenberg creates some delicious "everyday" wines that are a sure-fire hit every time.


For whites, I like to sip "summery" wines. Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, and Torrontes are some of my favorites. These make perfect choices for simple grilled veggie dishes. You can't go wrong with any of these! And, having plenty of Rose on hand is not a bad option either. Spanish Roses are entirely affordable, fruit-filled wines. These can even be found for $7-$10. There are so many terrific producers, be sure to ask your local retailer for advice.


Remember, keep it simple. Fun wines will work best with barbeque. Save the serious stuff for more serious dinners and special occasions!

GaGa, ooh la la

Deborah

What a glorious weekend! I took a long walk on Sunday, from my home in Rego Park, Queens through Flushing Meadow Park to the Queens Botanical Garden. The Spring flowering bulbs where at full peak and offered an overwhelmingly sensual experience. I flung myself on the grass next to the flower beds and breathed deep. The perfume floating out of the blossoms warmed from the sun was intoxicating. My mind slowed down to the point where this cliche was the only way to describe the blissful moment. AND the insane riot of color on the fleshy, velvety petals had me humming Lady Gaga songs as I made my way through the garden paths.

Walking back home I made a point to stop by at least one of the many Ecuadorean food vendor carts located on the eastern edge of the park.

The large jugs of bright green hot sauce (aji criollo) on the picnic tables drew me in. All I needed was a vehicle to get the hot sauce into my mouth.
Featured on the grill of Mi Pequeno Turruno were sweet potato croquets served with a salad. My second selection was something I had never seen or tried before- baked sweet plantains stuffed with mozzarella cheese, a combination that proved inspired: sweet, salty, mushy, yummy. Delish to everything!

sweet potato croquette

Baked stuffed plantain stuffed with mozzarella paired with a large helping of Ecuadorean hot sauce!


I came home and made my own version of the hot sauce with onions, garlic, lime juice and jalapenos.

I was able to find a recipe for the plantains online- a straight forward preparation as I suspected.
I am not sure what one drinks with this dish. Maybe something comes to mind Amanda?

These recipes are from the web site The Cooking Adventures of Chef Paz

Aji Criollo (Ecuadorian Hot Sauce)
Ingredients:
4 jalapenos, seeds removed
1/2 bunch of cilantro (stems and leaves)
1/2 cup of water
3 garlic cloves
Juice from 1/2 lime or lemon
3 Tbs finely chopped white onion (scallions can also be used)
Salt

Put all ingredients in food processor and blend.

Sweet Baked Plantain with Cheese
Ingredients:
6 ripe plantains, whole
1-2 Tbs melted butter or oil, use as little as you want
6 thick slices of mozzarella

Preparation:
Pre-heat oven to 400 F
Peel the plantains, place them on a baking sheet and rub them with butter or oil.
Bake the plantains for 30 minutes, then turn each one and bake for another 15 - 20 minutes or until golden on both sides.

Remove the plantains from the oven, made a horizontal slit on the middle of each plantain, and stuff them with cheese slices

In a few minutes the cheese will have melted, serve immediately, with or without hot sauce.

Amanda
Well, yes. This is a bit tough. But as in relationships - "there is someone for everyone" - so it is with food. At least in my mind. There is a libation out there for all things edible, and I am on an endless quest to find the best partners. I guess you could call me the "yenta" of food and beverage.


The sweet potato croquette and salad could certainly be a meal in and of itself. But I see the stuffed plantain as something "fun" served at a party. Therefore, I wouldn't pair something specifically with that dish. I would pour something that is just very versatile in general. As it is Spring, and I am in a "warm weather" frame of mind, my taste buds are affected greatly, and what I crave has changed with the weather. I am now in a Sangria state of mind, and I would highly recommend this chilled delight as an accompaniment to the wonderful recipes with which Deb has provided us. Red or white would work fine.


I originally discovered my latest favorite white Sangria recipe from Fine Cooking magazine. It is irresistable! Be careful though, it is so utterly refreshing and wonderful that it goes down incredibly easy! I think it would be marvelous next to the stuffed plantain topped with the hot sauce. And the abundance of fruit in the Sangria would serve perfectly to quell the heat from the jalapenos.


For white Sangria, I typically use an inexpensive, fruity Spanish wine (the same holds true for red). Many times I'll use an Albarino. The particular recipe I like is a Peach/Pear Sangria. Start off by peeling and dicing a variety of pears and peaches. Then, take 1 bottle of white wine, add 2 cups pear nectar, 1 tablespoon of simple syrup, 1/4 cup of gin, 3 tablespoons of triple sec and the fruit. I usually put it in the refridgerator for about 4 hours to let the fruit absorb the sangria a bit. I typically do not add ice to the pitcher, but rather chill it in the fridge. I prefer to add the ice to the cups. That way, the Sangria does not get too watery, especially if it is outside in the sun.


This Sangria is wonderful and easy, and I highly recommend it! Especially with stuffed plantains and Ecuadorian hot sauce!

no place like home

Deborah

One of my favorite discoveries in Queens is the Queens Museum of Art in Flushing Meadow Park. I remember the park vividly from my childhood visits to the Worlds Fair, but having lived my entire life in Manhattan I never happened to set foot in the park again until I moved to Queens five years ago. The museum, situated in the middle of the park, looks onto the famous plaza which holds the amazing and massive globe sculpture, truly magnificent up close. There are all sorts of strange architectural fair-ground leftovers dotting the park that are fun to explore as you walk around.

My husband and I love to wander inside the  museum, paricularly on cold winter Sundays. It is generally a sleepy place with a wide range of international exhibits, but on occasion it busts out into party mode.

The Queens Musuem of Art is famous for its Panorama, a model scale replica of every building in New York City built by 1992

Yesterday was one of those party days. The museum was hosting an evening called Ecuadorian Renaissance in New York 2010. There were artists, musicians, installations, paintings, photographs and Argentine wine to be sampled.

The crowd seemed to be largely from Ecuador and the atmosphere was festive, elegant and proud. It seemed that a lot of memories were being stirred. We were invited to write our impressions of the event in a large journal and we hung out to sip wine and listen to some very catchy Ecuadorian hip-hop artists perform. The exhibit that most caught my eye was a video installation recalling a favorite national dish called Locro. The video was silent but I got the general idea that Locro was some kind of a potato cheese soup.

Installation by artists Maria Viteri & Maria Fenanda Moscoso

I was able to piece together the recipe from watching the video.

When I got home I Googled the name of the dish and came upon multiple recipes, each slightly different. Locro is described as a beloved Ecuadorian dish that has as many variations as people who cook it. Inspired, I read over a few recipes and came up with my own version. Aside from the crucial ingredients of potatoes and cheese, there were a few recurring variables to consider.

The inclusion of milk, eggs, annatto oil, cumin and pumpkin, were debated on several sites. I decided to go with the annatto oil and a little bit of milk, and for an American touch I used Cheddar cheese. In no time I had a large pot going. The soup was so good! Really hearty and warming and full of flavor, I could see how this soup could ignite passionate feelings and remind one of home.

I made annatto oil from annatto seeds that I buy in the hispanic section of the supermarket. Add a teaspoon of seeds to 1/4 cup of oil, heat for 2-3 minutes till oil turns bright orange. Turn off heat and allow oil to seep for 15 minutes, then pour oil through a strainer and discard seeds.

One recipe recommended CRACKing the potatoes open with the point of your knife by inserting and twisting, rather than chopping them. I HAD to try this! It worked best when I first cut the potato in half, as I was afraid I would break the tip of my knife off inside the potato. 
I also left some of the peel on the potatoes.


RECIPE:
Locro- Ecuadorian Potato Cheese Soup

1 Tbs. Olive oil or Annatto oil
1 onion chopped
3 cloves of garlic, finely minced
1 tsp. salt
3 scallions, minced
3 Tbs chopped parsley
2 lbs potatoes peeled and cut into cubes
4 cups water
1/2 cup milk
3/4 cup grated cheddar cheese
cayenne pepper or paprika for garnish

Heat oil in large soup pot. Add onions, garlic and salt and cook till golden and softened, about 5-6 minutes. Add the scallions and the parsley and cook for 3 more minutes. Add the potatoes and the water and bring to a simmer. Cook for at least half an hour till potatoes are soft and cooked through.

Add the cheese and the milk and stir, continuing to simmer until the cheese melts. Put half the soup in a food processor or through a food mill to puree. Add the puree back into the soup pot with the rest of the soup. Heat through and serve. Garnish with a pinch of paprika or cayenne pepper and a teaspoon of grated cheese. serves four.

Amanda
While I sit here contemplating a wine, I must fill you in on the meal I am eating as I write - Deb's Chickpea, quinoa and spinach burger recipe. One word to say - SCRUMPTIOUS! Delightfully crispy on the outside, and just full of flavor all around, I plated mine with fresh crisp greens topped with a soy vinaigrette. A perfect, light, and satisfying dinner. Thanks Deb, for another winner!
As for the Ecuadorian Potato Cheese soup - this is one soup recipe where you can actually go heavier on the wine, especially with the cheddar. And, really red or white would work, depending on your mood. I personally would lean towards red on this one. Malbec is certainly one option, and Argentina is a good source. The wines are dark and juicy with typically mild tannins. In this case, the tannins are fine as the cheddar will soften them. A Malbec would serve to complement the rich creaminess of the soup as well.
One of my favorite producers of Malbec at the moment is Catena, located in the Mendoza region of Argentina. This is such a deep, dark, rich, lush outstanding wine, and can be found for only $16.99. The flavors are complex and layered, with tobacco and spice coming through on the palate. Susana Balbo is another incredibly talented winemaker in Argentina who includes world-class Malbec in her fabulous line-up of wines.
If you are fancying white with this soup, I would go for either a rich, creamy California Chardonnay (not too much oak) or perhaps a white from the South of France - one of my favorite areas for whites. Grape varietals used are usually Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Clairette. If you have not yet tried any whites from the Rhone, please do! Rich, creamy and mouthfilling, the wines display beautiful nuances of honey, peach and almond. Stand-out producers to seek out are Chateau Pesquie, Guigal, Domaine Jean-Luis Chave and Domaine Giraud.  Trust me - these wines are worth seeking out!
For Deb's recipe, it's OK to go with a bigger and bolder wine as mentioned earlier. Just think of the soup's characteristics and translate them into wine. Be sure not to go too light on this wine! Enjoy!

a gift from the sea

Deborah
Torrey Pines Beach, La Jolla, CA (no, I'm not there now)

Arame- It sounds like the name of a mythological Greek goddess. This humble little seaweed otherwise known as sea vegetable or "edible ocean plant" is one of many truly delicious options for a well rounded vegetarian diet (or any diet for that matter). I first encountered Sea Vegetables (they have a little bit of a PR problem being called seaweed, not appetizing I guess, so the name has been dignified as a full fledged vege- NOT A WEED!), when I went to culinary school. The teacher, Melanie Ferreira, extolled the benefits of a daily diet of sea vegetables and used herself as a living example of all its virtues. I had to admit at the time that Melanie looked like the picture of health, a mother of several boys she had glowing skin and shiny shiny hair. I have had a lifelong obsession with all things oceanic and had no qualms exploring the sea VEGETABLE world with Chef Melanie's guidance. 

I know what you are thinking- seaweed, that stuff that gets washed up on the beach and is only good to mulch your garden with (yes it is!)

This is a beach on Anna Marie Island, Florida.

Arame can be found in any health food store. It is purchased dry and quickly revives after being soaked in water. The Eden Foods site describes arame thus:
The most mild tasting of all sea vegetables, hand harvested in the wild, shredded, cooked, and naturally air dried. Versatile, quick cooking and easy to prepare. Rich in dietary fiber, low calorie, low sodium, and a good source of vitamin A, calcium, and magnesium. Great in salads and sautéed vegetable dishes.

This is dried arame straight out of the package (or you can buy it loose in bulk at Integral Yoga Natural Foods, my FAVORITE health food store)

Easy to like, easy to cook and good for you. Arame, you goddess you! I love to add her (!) to stir-fried rice and miso soups. She gets along well with other vegetables and brings some drama with her deep black color. The first sea vege recipe I learned was a stir-fry with julienned carrots. It came to mind today because I still have some sesame paste on hand and that will be a perfect compliment to this dish. AND Amanda happened to mention to me that she is currently exploring sea vegetable recipes.  Is there really a wine to pair with it?

Remember Home Cooks- you don't have to get too obsessed with your julienne cuts. The idea is to get everything roughly the same size so they cook at the same rate. 

A julienne cut gives you lots of surface area so everything cooks QUICKLY!

Arame and Carrot Stir-Fry

1 Tbs. Canola oil
2 cups of Carrots, cut into a julienne
1 cup of Arame, soaked in water for 15 minutes
3 scallions minced

1 tsp. Soy Sauce

2 tsp. Sesame oil

1 Tbs. Sesame Paste- see recipe below

Heat the oil in a wok and when it is hot and beginning to ripple add the carrots and quickly stir-fry for 3-5 minutes till they begin to soften and turn a little golden and slightly crispy. Drain the arame from the soaking liquid and add it to the carrots in the wok along with the scallions. Stir-fry for another 2 minutes, add the soy sauce, the sesame oil and the sesame paste. Heat through for another minute and serve.
serves 2-4

Sesame Paste-Toast 6 Tbs. sesame seeds in a dry pan for 2-3 minutes till they slightly change color. Put in a spice grinder and grind into a  powder. Put this powder into a food processor and add 1/2 cup more sesame seeds, 1/4 cup soy sauce and 2 Tbs. sugar. Process into a paste. The paste will store well in the fridge for several weeks.

Amanda
When I discover a new, exciting author, I tend to stick with that author for awhile, reading everything he/she has written. And so it is when I discover a new food. Though I can't say I've really just discovered seaweed - I've been eating it since the '70's in sushi and salads. I did however just discover cooking with it. I am now obsessed and must cook every recipe I can get my hands on! Thanks Deb, for one that sounds easy and delicious! And very healthy!


I made a salad from Arame a few days ago and loved it! It was from Mark Bittman's new book, How to Cook Everything Vegetarian (which, by the way, is superb!) It was very basic and delicious. Similar to Deb's but without the carrots. Tonight, I will try it Deb's way. (Deb - any advice on how to make the sesame paste without a spice grinder? Not sure if I have time to get to Chef's Central today!)


I also tried Wakame the other day. Opened the bag and it was EXTREMELY salty, so I didn't do much with it. One of the recommendations on the bag was to roast it and eat it crispy, like chips. So I tried it. Still couldn't deal with the salt. Oh well.


As I always mention, I think about the sauce when pairing veggies with wine. However, I am going to make an exception on this one. I will consider both the seasonings and the arame flavors. I love the smell and flavors of the ocean, which one can capture in seaweed. This is what I smell and taste when I eat sea vegetables. Wines that come to mind are ones that pair well with all of the creatures of the sea like mussels, clams, shrimp, etc. I want something white, minerally, and crisp which will pair perfectly with all sorts of seafood. If it pairs will with raw oysters and clams, I see no reason why it shouldn't be a great match for seaweed!

Pinot Blanc from Alsace is my first pick. In Alsace, this is a staple when it comes to pairing wine with shellfish. (As is Muscadet from the Loire which would also make a beautiful accompaniment to Deb's salad). One of my favorite whites during the warmer weather is a blend of Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc - the Dopff & Irion Crustaces.  (Sylvaner is a white varietal grown primarily in Alsace and Germany). A perfect match for all things "Ocean"! The fresh, clean flavors of the wine will be terrific along side this sea vegetable salad! Seaweed salads themselves are light and crisp, so definitely look for a wine with similar characteristics. Sometimes, when pairing wine and food, contrasting flavors and textures works beautifully. However, in this situation, match a lighter style wine to this dish!

comfort and soy

Deborah

As the days get shorter our thoughts turn to comfort. Comfort food, of course. Now Amanda, I apologize right up front, I'm not talking diet food. Oh no. I am thinking about peanut sauce, gooey and rich and poured over noodles. Peanut sauce takes on all types of shapes and flavors in my kitchen. I never make it the same way twice. Rather, I proceed from a basic plan and improvise as I go. My peanut sauce is an Asian melting pot with my gratitude and apologies to all.

Tonight the peanut sauce was tossed over noodles with some steamed broccoli and some pan fried firm tofu. I like to get the tofu really golden and crispy.

It's about half way there.

I then add to the noodles tons of chopped scallions and julienned cucumber. I love the mixture of all the  crunchy textures glued together with that non-dietetic peanut sauce. The sauce itself usually has ginger, garlic, lime and or lemon juice, jalapeno, sugar, coconut milk and soy sauce. I just throw it all in a pot and let it melt down a bit and start tasting it to adjust the flavor. Oh yeah, and I use Skippy extra chunky peanut butter. I can hear you all groaning. I'm sorry. It tastes really good. Amanda, just skip down to the next paragraph about the kale salad. Ok, I would love to hear anyone's peanut sauce recipe. I tried Daniel Boulud's version and IT WAS NOT GOOD. It really wasn't and he is GREAT. The Malaysian Restaurant Penang on Queens Boulevard makes an AMAZING  peanut sauce that I just love but am too shy to ask for the recipe because if they said no I would probably cry.

It's a white girl from Manhattan's version of peanut sauce over noodles. Yeah that's linguine under there. I said I'm sorry.



Anyway, kale salad, what a concept. Amanda told me about a swanky wine tasting dinner she recently attended that served a salad she believed to be finely minced uncooked kale. Really? She said it was fantastic. Huh, worth a try. I picked up a bunch of stunningly colorful red kale today at Whole Foods and thought I would give the salad a shot.

When you finely mince beef for steak tartar it gets very tender, so perhaps it would work for kale. Perhaps. Kale leaves are particularly tough for a green leafy veg, but if this technique worked, well, how cool? So I tried it, chop chop chop.

I dressed it with white balsamic vinegar and some walnut oil and lots of s & p. And I tasted it. Um, chewy. Really chewy. It didn't taste bad and if you served it to me I would eat it, but I did not get it to the point where I would serve it to you. So I will pursue this concept further and see where it goes.

Peanut Sauce
1 cup of extra chunky peanut butter
3/4 cup of coconut milk
2 cloves of garlic finely minced
1 inch piece of peeled ginger finely minced
2 scallions finely minced
1 jalapeno finely minced
Juice of 1 lime
2 Tbs soy sauce
1 Tbs sugar

Put all ingredients in a small pot and cook over low heat for 10 minutes untill all the ingredients are blended. taste to adjust seasoning. Store in fridge for a week. Great with everything!

Amanda
You had me at "peanut sauce". Admittedly, it doesn't take much to get me salivating. But I am particularly susceptible to any recipe involving peanut butter, be it main course, salad or dessert. I get weak at just the thought of cold sesame noodles from my local Chinese take-out establishment. I can waive the calorie counting for a night for the occasion of trying out your recipe!

Vouvray is the wine that jumps to mind. One of my favorite whites, I sometimes inadvertantly overlook it. Vouvray is a region in France located in the Loire Valley.  Made from 100% Chenin Blanc, the wine is made in a variety of styles, raging in dry, or sec to the slightly sweeter demi-sec, and much sweeter moelleux. There is an occasion for each style! I would enjoy a richer style with this dish, one which has characteristics of honey, figs and nuts. Vouvray pairs very well with stronly flavored dishes, and I think this combination would be beautiful!

The style and acidity of Vouvray is based on the balance of sugar in the wine. Vouvrays have great ageability, especially the moeulleux style. This is a wine, if you have not yet tried, is definitely worth seeking out. With Deb's peanut sauce, I would definitely lean towards an off-dry, or slightly sweet style. The sweetness of the wine is a fine balance to the zip from the jalapeno, and saltiness from the soy sauce.

Deb, I cannot wait to try this one out! Sounds wonderful and right up my alley!

As for the kale salad, it definitely looks like the one I enjoyed the other night! You mentioned the toughness of kale, and that you chopped away - believe it or not, your pieces are still larger than the ones in my salad! The kale I had was chopped so fine, almost like little strands of confetti. It was so shredded, there was no toughness at all. Just a wonderful crunchiness that gave me the idea that it could not have been blanched. Pine nuts added to the crunchiness as well, and plump somethings (like very large raisins, but I don't know what they were) gave the salad a scrumptuous sweetness and chewy texture. Perhaps I should call the restaurant and investigate this a little!