Something Familiar

Deborah
Sometimes I go back to the most obvious recipes because, well, they work! Time tested old favorites get tweaked over the years, but the basic classic combinations survive for a reason. I am thinking about salads right now. There is still some time left to enjoy the best of the farmer's markets and to eat it raw!


A cucumber grows at Hook Mountain

Cucumber salad is one of those dishes that doesn't get people too excited. And yet, and yet... the fresh clean crisp flavor definitely has a place at the table. I particularly like to serve it as a side with heavier dishes, anything with BBQ sauce for example. The cucumber becomes a great palate cleanser and counter point to thick spicy sauces in the summer. I am thinking of serving this with my friend, great cook and fellow blogger Katie Hoffman's Austin Baked Bean dish. I think she would approve. Her beans are another classic and familiar dish that maybe sounds old hat. But, when you make these dishes yourself from scratch you add your own preferences and flair. AND they are satisfying crowd pleasers. Now, who doesn't like to please a crowd?


I like to add feta cheese or ricotta salata to the cucumber salad for some tart creaminess. Onions and dill give the cukes a little backbone. This predictable dish still makes an impression and it wouldn't be (end of!) summer with out it.

Amanda, what would you serve with baked beans and cucumber salad? Now, there is a challenge! The beans are sweet and smoky and the cukes are cool and tart. I am imaging a late summer backyard party where the cooler air is starting to be felt.

Cucumber, Ricotta Salata and Dill Salad

2 Cucumbers
1/2 small white onion thinly sliced

Vinaigrette:
2 Tbs chopped dill, plus a few sprigs for garnish
1 clove garlic finely minced
1 teas salt
1 Tbs red wine vinegar
3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil

4 oz *Ricotta Salata or feta cheese (use a block of feta cheese, not crumbled)
Ground pepper to taste

*Epicurious describes Ricotta Salata as "...a firm cheese with a mildly salty flavor. It's available at some supermarkets and specialty foods stores, and at Italian markets."

Peel the cukes lenghtwise in stripes so that some color from the skin is left on. Thinly slice the peeled cukes, using a mandolin if you have one, then set aside. Place the sliced onion in a bowl of cold water and allow them to soak for 10 minutes. This will keep the onions from completely wilting and will help remove some of the sharp flavor (I use this method whenever I am putting raw onions in a salad). Drain the onions and add them to the cucumbers.

Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl whisk together the dill, garlic, salt and vinegar. Slowly drizzle in the Olive oil as you continue to whisk. Pour vinaigrette over cumbers and toss to combine. Arrange on a serving plate and allow flavors to blend for half an hour. Before serving take a vegetable peeler and shave the cheese on top of the salad. Add a little freshly ground pepper to taste and garnish with the dill sprigs (fronds?).

Amanda

Well, I have to say you could not have provided this recipe at a better time. Tomorrow is my neighborhood block party. The street is closed off, and our close-knit block spends the day barbequing in the street while the children ride their scooters, jump in a bouncy house, and run wild and barefoot through the neighborhood. Hot weather is predicted. Everyone brings something. Of course, I have volunteered to provide the adult libations. But I have been conflicted about what side dish to make. Now I have my answer! This is perfect! What's even better, I have the ideal wine in mind. Today I am in wine shop, working. Not my usual day. But momentarily we will be joined by winemaker Alexandra Schmedes of Bodega Mas Que Vino Ercavio to present her wines for our Saturday in-store tasting. I first met Alexandra in June, when I accompanied my friend and importer Katell Pleven (of Ibanez Pleven Offerings) to Spain. Alexandra makes ouststanding wines at everyday prices. One of the wines in today's in-store tasting is the Ercavio Blanco, a blend of Airen and a small percentage of Sauvignon Blanc. Airen is the dominant white grape grown in La Mancha and across Spain. Her wine is clean, fresh and crisp. Truly refreshing. The fruity aromas and bright acidity are a perfect match for the cucumber dish. And the pineapple and peach flavors can stand up to the bolder flavors of the beans. As for wanting to please a crowd - this is the perfect wine. I love to recommend it for large gatherings since its price tag is rather low at $11.99 a bottle. Alexandra makes a great Rose as well, which is meaty and substantial on the palate - also perfect for an (end of) summer barbeque and certainly can hold up to a variety of foods.

Music to my ears

Deborah
Waiting all year for a particular harvest is like waiting for your favorite rock band to come to town. Once they are here you have to act fast, because it will be quite a while before you have a chance see them again.
The Pains of Being Pure at Heart at South Street Seaport July '09, just one of the many fantastic outdoor concerts we saw this summer! Photo:Alan Mann

So it is with corn. Yes, you can get it all year round, but when it is fresh and in season and coming from a local farm, there is nothing like it. I wondered if Amanda had any thoughts about wine pairing with corn. Light, sweet, grassy, a little nutty perhaps, are the flavors I would associate with corn. Two corn dishes I love to make are a simple saute of corn with peppers and a curried corn fritter. The fritters are light and airy with just a hint of curry to add some depth and interest. Eat them hot hot hot out of the frying pan and the fresh corn kernels will burst in your mouth with sweetness. I like to serve these fritters with peach salsa. There are still some nice peaches out there and this salsa tastes great with everything.

The Southwestern style corn saute is a really quick dish with a tiny bite coming from the addition of chili powder and finely minced jalapenos to add some color and crunch. I make this dish all year round, but when the corn is fresh and tender it delightfully melts in your mouth. Sublime!

I wonder who else is in town this weekend?

Curried Corn Fritters with Peach Salsa
2 ears of corn, kernels removed from cob
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup milk
2 scallions minced
1/3 cup of yellow cornmeal
3 Tbs flour
1 tsp curry powder
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
3 Tbs canola oil
Mix corn kernels with the egg, milk, and scallions. Add the dry ingredients and stir to blend. Heat oil in shallow pan till hot and nearly smoking.
Drop 1 large tablespoon of corn batter into hot oil for each fritter.
Cook till golden, about 2 minutes and then flip and cook 2 more minutes. Drain on paper towel and salt to taste while still hot.




serve immediately with salsa






Peach Salsa
2 large peaches peeled and chopped into small cubes
1/2 red onion finely chopped
1 jalapeno finely chopped
2 Tbs chopped cilantro
1/2 tsp salt
Juice of one lime
Mix all ingredients and allow to sit for 15 minutes for flavors to combine.

Southwest Pan Sauteed Corn
2 Tbs canola oil
1 jalapeno pepper finely minced
1/2 red bell pepper finely minced
4 ears of corn, kernels removed from cob
1 tsp chili powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 Tbs butter
Heat oil in saute pan add jalapeno and peppers and cook about five minutes till they begin to soften. Add the corn and continue to cook till corn takes on a bright color, about 5 more minutes. Add the chili powder, salt and butter and cook another minute or two till flavors are blended and the butter is completely melted. serves 4
Amanda
Both recipes sound fabulous. And, since my husband is an avid corn fan, I may just have to surprise him with these this weekend! I have perfect wines in mind for both. I think a Pinot Blanc from Alsace, France would be a super hit with the corn fritters, especially given the addition of curry powder. The wonderful fruit flavors of the wine are traditionally a great combination with Indian spices. And, the wine is perfectly suited to the peach salsa as well. Pinot Blanc from this region in France typically displays terrific aromas and flavors of peaches and pears, and is usually rich and round on the palate. One of my favorite whites, the wine will display different characteristics dependent upon where it is produced. In California, the wine can be more Chardonnay-like. But I think one from Alsace, a bit more delicate in style, really would be so perfect with these fritters!
And, I have a great match for the Corn Sautee! Last night I was at a wine dinner with winemaker Nick Goldschmidt, who produces fabulous wines from New Zealand, Australia and California. He is incredibly knowledgable as well has extremely funny. At the event, I sampled his Forefathers Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. The wine has a lot of stone fruit and pear characteristics, and is a bit "bigger" than a typical Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. The delicious flavors of passion fruit on the finish will surely stand up to, and subdue, the spicy kick from the jalapeno peppers. The slightly sweet, grassy flavors of the corn that Deborah described above will also perfectly complement any New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc!

Good things in small spaces

Deborah

A visit to Hook Mountain Growers
Dr. Pamela Yee and her husband Dr. Charlie Paolino have taken on a life project dear to their hearts. They have converted a portion of their sprawling Nyack, NY suburban backyard into a magnificent kitchen garden. It's more of a mini-farm with a wide range of vegetables and herbs thriving in terraced raised beds. Pam calls her project "homesteading". I call it amazing!

My recent visit to see what a small garden could yield was well rewarded with a perfect sunny day, an eyeful of beautiful bounty and an armload of freshly picked produce.



Butters the bull dog guards the tomato harvest

Pam and her husband devote many hours to the land and I envied the peace and tranquility of their natural back-to-the-land lifestyle so close to NY City. The abundance is impressive and not withstanding the devastation of the tomato blight the couple are able to sell their produce to friends and neighbors on the weekends.
I purchased several pounds of tomatillos for a salsa I planned to make for a large party I was catering in the Hamptons. I picked up a few more vegetables to bring home for my family (Pamela allowed me to choose the most gorgeous peppers right off the plant!) and came home with a grilled ratatouille in mind. The classic French vegetable stew is always an inspiration when the harvest comes in. Rather than slow cooking on the stove, I opted to grill the traditional mix of vegetables. After grilling they are roughly chopped and and then briefly simmered w/ garlic oil and fresh herbs. This can be made the day before and allowed to sit overnight to allow the flavors to blend. Pretty, simple and delicious. Thank you Hook Mountain Growers!

Grilled Ratatouille
The key to this recipe is to keep it rustic. Use the vegetables and herbs you have on hand. I like spicy so I always add some hot peppers. Amanda, the final dish is loaded with flavor and very robust, with a smoky undertone from the grilling. What would you suggest for a compatible wine?

Vegetables before grilling and after

1 eggplant sliced into 1 inch disks
1 onion sliced into quarters w/ root attached to keep pieces together
2 small bell peppers left whole
1 zucchini sliced on an angle into wedges
2 medium tomatoes cut in half
1 jalapeno pepper (optional)
Olive oil (about 6 tablespoons)
3 garlic cloves roughly chopped
small handful of fresh herbs roughly chopped (parsley, tarragon, oregano, basil in any combination)

Brush the vegetables w/ olive oil and grill over hot coals till tender, about 10-15 minutes. Remove charred skin from the peppers and roughly chop all the vegetables and set aside. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a sauce pan and add the garlic. Simmer garlic till it begins to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped vegetables and the white wine and herbs and simmer for another 10 minutes till flavors combine and wine begins to evaporate. I aggressively mash down the larger pieces of vegetables with the end of a wooden spatula while the stew simmers to further "rusticate" the dish.

Remove from pan and refrigerate overnight to allow the flavors to blend (I can't wait that long and always eat some right away!). Can be served warm or cold.
serves 4

Amanda
Deb, this looks and sounds absolutely wonderful! Right away, I think of a red. Something with lots of earth but not too powerful as to overwhelm the vegetables. My first thought would be Cabernet Franc, originally from the Bordeaux and Loire Valley regions of France. While it is now grown successfully around the world, I would choose something from the Loire. Chinon is the red wine, made from Cabernet Franc, which comes from this specific area. The wine typically has beautiful aromatics, and has that hint of tobacco which should work well with the smoky flavors from the grill. One of the leading domaines in the area is Couly Dutheil, a favorite of mine. Their Chinon is deep and dark, with lots of complexity - definitely a "food wine". The rusticity of the wine would do wonders with that same quality of the dish.

With this recipe, my mind also wanders to thoughts of Malbec. Originally from the southeast of France, Argentina does wonders with this varietal as well. While the grape is used mostly for blending in France, with the exception of Cahors, it has achieved great success in Argentina due to the hotter climate. And great bargains abound. One of my favorite Argentine winemakers is Susana Balbo, who in my book, can do no wrong. This seems like a perfect combination for an impromptu get-together with friends!

Lidia, Oh Lidia

Deborah
Hot hot day and I cant face anything, especially where stoves are concerned so I'm sitting in front of the AC (set at 75 degrees, really) with the TV on. Lidia Bastianich, the amazing Italian chef, is on channel 13 making a radicchio risotto. I am so inspired I run into my kitchen, despite the heat, to start my own risotto. I don't have radicchio, but I am still swimming in tomatoes and I have a half a bulb of fennel so Im good to go.



The risotto was eaten before I could take a photo!

Lidia debates using stock in her risotto vs. plain simmering water. I have never come across a risotto recipe that calls for plain water. Lidia opts for the water even though the camera has panned over a lovely simmering stock. WATER? I'm intrigued. Well, let's give it a try. After the initial additions of water into the rice mixture I give it a taste and think, not so great. But by the time the dish was finished and butter was added (Lidia added at LEAST A STICK of BUTTER to finish the dish. I couldn't quite bring myself to do that. Sorry Julia, I know, I know). I was surprised by the pleasantly subtle sweet and fragrant flavor of the tomatoes infusing the rice. Stock now seemed like an overbearing intruder and I am sold on this new approach.

Fennel Tomato Risotto
and Couly Dutheil Chinon Rose
3 Tbs. Butter
2 Tbs. extra virgin Olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1/2 fennel bulb, chopped
1/2 teas. salt
1 cup arborio rice
3 cups simmering salted water
1 cup of Rose wine (I used la Vielle Ferme)
1 large tomato chopped
1/2 cup grated romano cheese

Heat 1Tbs butter and 1Tbs olive oil in large sauce pan. When butter is warm and melted add the onions, the fennel and salt. Sweat the vegetables a few minutes until they are soft and translucent. Add rice and stir in pan until all grains are coated and begin to look a little clear. Add half the tomatoes and cook another minute till the tomatoes begin to break down a bit. Pour in the wine and let the pan simmer until wine is absorbed. Begin to slowly add the simmering water by the ladleful, allowing the liquid to absorb into the rice before adding the next ladleful. Lidia suggests it will take at least 10 additions of water until the rice is done. When is it done? The rice should be creamy, slightly loose, a bit al dente but cooked through. If it tastes done, its done.
Turn off heat and add the rest of the tomatoes, the butter, the cheese and the olive oil, stirring to combine.
Serve four right away!
Amanda
Deb - I have just one word to describe my meal experience last night: exquisite. I decided to make this for dinner, and immediately knew which wine I would enjoy with it. When I saw "rose" listed in the ingredients, my decision was made. I figured the creamy texture of the risotto, and the wonderful licorice flavor of the fennel would be a great match for what else? A rose. But which one? I decided to go with one of my absolute favorites this summer - a Chinon Rose from Couly Dutheil located in the Loire Valley of France. The wine is made from 100% Cabernet Franc, and is just a beautiful composite of cherry fruit flavors and spice. Medium in body, the wine itself has a creamy texture which I knew would be perfect with the Risotto. Love, love, love this wine.
I chopped the fennel, tomato, and onion while the kids were eating dinner. Around 9:30, after the kids were asleep, I began to cook. I opened the bottle of wine, and enjoyed a glass while making dinner. I stood over my risotto, adding water, watching and waiting, anxiously anticipating what I knew would be wonderful by the mixed aromas in the kitchen. And I was loving my glass of wine! When it was done (and Deb - you're 100% right - you know it's done when it's done. Just keep trying it and you'll know), I placed a modest portion in a pretty bowl and topped off my glass of Rose. I was in heaven. This dish is incredibly suited to rose. The risotto was amazing, one of the best meals I've prepared in a long while. The rich fruit flavors of the wine were perfect next to the fennel and creamy texture of the risotto. I can't say enough good things about this pairing. It has "dinner party" written all over it. This is something I am, without a doubt, preparing the next time I cook for friends.
Oh, and one more thing, that modest portion that I placed in my bowl soon grew to 3 or 4 modest portions. Couldn't stop eating it. But Deb, one question: Any suggestions for leftover fennel?



-leftover fennel? goes great in soup, pasta sauce, or thinly sliced raw into salads. The flavor is so mild but has great depth and combines really well with other vegetables. 
Deb