one potato, two potato

Deborah
A crowd-pleasing recipe is always something good to have in your back pocket. When catering large buffet parties I always like to include a dish that will knock everybody's socks off. I look to classic comfort foods for this, something that will resonate with most guests and ensure that people feel pampered and spoiled.

It is hard to go wrong with the fresh potatoes coming into the farm stands these days.

French chef and cookbook writer Madeleine Kamman's potato gratin suits the bill completely. This recipe is uncomplicated to make and deeply satisfying to eat. I always include it in my annual family Christmas dinner. It a great compliment for large spreads and goes especially well with roasts and braises of any kind.

These two well thumbed copies of her books have served me well. I had the pleasure of taking a cooking class with Ms. Kamman several years ago and my copy of her The New Making of a Cook is signed!


Last weekend I made this gratin for a party I catered for 30 guests. There was a lot of peeling, I went through ten pounds of potatoes and more than 1 quart of cream, but the beauty of the recipe is that it can easily be scaled up or down. The potatoes can be peeled and sliced the day before cooking and stored in the fridge completely covered in water. Once baked it can be kept warm in an oven for an hour or two before serving. Very forgiving, this recipe won't fail you. It is rich and decadent and perfect for a dinner party.

Potato Gratin
-based on a recipe by Madeleine Kamman
1 garlic clove
2 Tbs. butter
4 large potatoes, thinly sliced
pinch of ground nutmeg
s &p to taste
1 1/2 cups heavy cream

Rub garlic onto the bottom amd sides of an oven proof cassarole dish. I use a paper towl to hold the garlic and really crush it down as I rub. Discard the remains of the garlic and rub the dish with the butter. Layer the potato slices in  the dish, adding salt and pepper and nutmeg to each layer as you go. Pour the cream into the pan and shake a bit to distribute around the potatoes. Bake for 1 1/2 hours, using a spatula every now and then during baking to push the potatoes down and allow the cream to rise up. There will be a golden brown crust when the dish is finished baking.
Will keep for at least two hours in a warm oven before serving if needed.

serves four.

Amanda
MMMMMM. How can this recipe not be delicious? As this would be a side dish, and not a main meal, you would pair a wine with the main course. However, the simplicity of this dish, and the "basic" flavor profile of really allows it to be quite wine-friendly.

I have a few thoughts in mind regarding wine choice. For a white, you could go in one of two directions - complement, or contrast. Both these schools of thought work quite well when it comes to pairing wine with food. A rich, buttery Chardonnay would be a great match if you are looking to "complement" the potatoes. The similar qualities in the wine and food are perfect together. If you are looking for a contrast, I would look towards something with crisp acidity to "cut through" the rich, buttery flavors of the potatoes, perhaps a Sauvignon Blanc. A "contrasting" wine will help cleanse the palate as well. Why not choose one of each and see for yourself?

For reds - though many would work, I am thinking specifically of Beaujolais. How could I not? Fall and the holiday season makes this delightful red a real treat.  Most of you are probably familiar with Beaujolais Nouveau, and Beaujolais Villages. What I'm thinking of are the Cru Beaujolais - these are site specific, made from the top Villages. The wine takes the name of the village from which it came. There are 10 different "crus", all producing wines with different characteristics. The wines are food friendly, and are a must-have at Thanksgiving. And, even the Cru Beaujolais are not too expensive. Most can be found for between $10 and $20.

The grape used for the production of Beaujolais is Gamay. For Deb's Gratin, I would choose a Beaujolais that is a little fuller bodied. A Morgon would be nice, with its earthy undertones.  A Moulin-a-Vent also would work well. A little oak aging gives this wine nice structure and roundness, perfect for standing up to the richness of Deb's dish. Sometimes, you might see the words "futs de chene" (oak casks) on the label which will indicate the wine has seen some oak.  These wines will typically be the more full-bodied of the Beaujolais. These reds have great depth, and are very fruit-forward. If you are not familiar with these wines, definitely check them out! For consistenly good wines, look for Georges Duboeuf. 

The store wine store I work for just got in several different DuBoeuf Cru Beaujolais at the shop. If you are interested in reading more about them, please check out Carlo Russo's Wine and Spirit World on line.

grab the tortillas

Deborah
One of my favorite food blogs is Herbivoracious, written by Michael Natkin, a vegetarian cook who loves good food and fine dining. Michael is from Seattle so his local frame-of-reference is a little different than ours here in NY. I first came upon Michael's blog through the food blog hub Serious Eats. His recipes and food photos really stood out from the over-crowded field. Now that I have found Michael I really look forward to his strictly vegetarian recipes and smart observations about the food industry in general.

My backyard herbs are in full swing. I take cutting every evening to put into my salads.

Today's post on Herbivoracious was Grilled Tofu and Pepper Vegetarian Tacos. It seems like the perfect fit for our current grilling theme. Michael's recipe is a little more labor intensive than we usually offer up here, but I really respect his instincts and have faith that the result will be well worth the work. Michael suggests buying the freshest and best corn tortillas you can find. I heartily concur. Try to find lesser known brands that look like they came packaged straight from Mexico. There are small tortilla companys all over that sell great products.

These Guerrero tortillas are actually from Mexico. Also look for small brands like Tropical which is located in New Jersey. The scent of warm corn tortillas is a joy to behold!

Grilled Tofu and Pepper Vegetarian Tacos
by Michael Natkin
Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free
Serves 4

1.5 ounces achiote "brick" paste (aka annatto)
1/2 cup canola oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons Tapatio or other hot sauce
1 teaspoon salt
10 ounces extra firm tofu cut into 1/3" slabs and patted dry
1 medium zucchini, cut into 1/3" slabs
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 red and 1 yellow bell pepper, cut into strips
24 corn tortillas
-serve with guacamole and salsa

In a small bowl, break up the achiote with a fork and mash in the oil, a little at a time until it dissolves. Mix in the cumin, hot sauce and salt.
Heat up a grill or grill pan to a medium flame. Brush the tofu with the achiote oil on one side and grill until well marked. Brush the other side, flip, and grill. Repeat with the zucchini. Allow both to cool and then cut into 1/3" dice.
Heat up a frying pan over a medium-high flame. Add 2 tablespoons of the achiote oil. Saute the onion, garlic and bell peppers until very soft.
Add the tofu and zucchini to the pepper mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning. It may need more salt, or a little lime or lemon juice, or more chile heat.
Wrap the tortillas in a damp, clean dish towel and microwave for about 3 minutes until soft and warm.
To eat, lay down two tortillas. Top with a moderate scoop of the filling, a spoonful of guacamole and salsa. Pass more hot sauce for those who want it.




Amanda
Well, it certainly seem worth the effort! First, Deb - where should I look for the achiote paste? Do you think Whole Foods or Fairway would have it? After that, the rest of the ingredients should not be a problem. And thanks for sharing the Herbivoraceous blog - it's wonderful!


I have mentioned earlier that you should basically choose a fun, simple wine when grilling and not think too much about it. Accept when there is a sauce, or ethnic flair. Because of the spicy nature of this dish, selecting the right wine is important. Spicy foods can have a very negative affect on wine, and vice versa. Stay away from Chardonnay and tannic wines. The heat from the spice will ruin the flavors of the Chardonnay, and the heat from the tacos will only be exacerbated. Avoid Cabernet and Merlot as well.


For white, which would be my first choice, I would definitely pick something with a lot of fruit, and even something "off dry" (slightly sweet). Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley would be delicious. Typically fragrant and lightly sweet, the wine is incredibly versatile and food-friendly. Vouvray is simply wonderful, and has a bit of a honeyed character. There are also an abundance of terrific, affordable Chenin Blancs from South Africa, referred to as "Steen". Mulderbosch and Simonsig are extremely affordable options. Pinot Gris would also be a great choice as well.


For red, I would look towards something simple, light and fruity. A Beaujolais would do the trick. They are nice when served with a slight chill. Georges Duboeuf and Louis Jadot are two producers whose wines are readily available in most shops, and are consistently good. Perfect summertime wine! An easy-going, inexpensive Tempranillo would also work. And if you have the time, might as well make a nice pitcher of Sangria!