like Mama makes

Deborah

Vegetable gardens are in their glory right now. We are beginning to be bombarded with a plethora of fresh produce choices and, may I ask: what are we to do with it all?

I am so excited about my tiny crop of heirloom tomatoes!

Things have gotten a little overgrown. Treasures await to be uncovered!

I planted these radishes in May and they went right to seed. Now I have a lot of seeds. The pods are pretty, but I don't think edible. Maybe I can use the seeds to grow radishes in the fall. I wonder?

Gazpacho becomes the obvious solution. This cold liquid salad-as-a-soup can absorb all sorts of vegetables and herbs into it's mix and still maintain an identity. The version I make is based on a recipe my mother taught me years ago. Her source was more than likely something she read in Gourmet Magazine back in the 70's. It was the perfect recipe back then for using the brand new cooking gadget on the market - the food processor. I doubt gazpacho would have made many inroads in American kitchens before that. I recall my gazpacho crash course as a young girl when my mother decided to sell cups of gazpacho at our neighborhood street fair (W. 70th Street in Manhattan, circa 1970's. Were you there?) The gazpacho was so popular it was quickly sold out and my sister and I were sent back into the kitchen to crank out more batches all day long.

I retain a fondness for this clever Spanish originated soup to this day. The following recipe is just used as a touchstone for me as I now distort the basic concept to suit my mood and available ingredients. I don't believe even this version is quite authentic, but it tastes great and is fun to make when days are hot and tomatoes are plentiful.

Barbara's Gazpacho

1 clove Garlic

4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and quartered

1/2 green or red bell pepper, seeded and sliced

1/2 small onion, quartered

1 cucumber, peeled and coarsely sliced

1 teas. salt

1/4 teas. pepper

2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. red wine vinegar

1/2 cup ice cold water

Place all ingredients into a food processor or blender and puree until desired consistency. 

Chill for 1/2 hour and serve.

Amanda
Gazpacho has been one of my favorite summertime enjoyments for about 30 years now. I make batches of it all summer long. A well-chilled bowl in hot weather is a delightfully healthy meal. I used to try a plethora of recipes in search of the perfect one. There are so many different ways to make it - but there is a distinct style I prefer, and it is one I have tried to master for years. I finally gave up on recipes, and found my own path. Deb's recipe is very similar to the way I concoct my own version, the main difference being that I add a lot of diced vegetables to the puree. I have a pretty hearty appetite. My reason for making a "chunkier" version is really only to make it a little more filling. As an appetizer, I enjoy the pureed version. As a main course, I add lots of veggies and chopped avocado as well, only to leave my appetite satisfied.

As for wine, I want a crisp fresh white with Gazpacho. To stick with the Gazpacho's Spanish background, I might opt for a Spanish white. Foods from different regions have a particular affinity for the wines from the same regions. Albarino would be a perfect match, especially on a hot summer's day. Albarino is grown in Galicia in northwest Spain. It is typically high in acidity, with stone fruit flavors. Another wonderful option would be one of my favorite white varietals - Godello. Also grown in northwest Spain, Godello produces some very fine wines. Godellos are elegant, with terrific minerality combined with bright acidity, wonderful aromatics, and flavors of peach and melon. A little oak will add to the wine's depth and complexity - but Godello's are not well-suited to a superfluous use of oak. Beware of the over-oaked ones.


Both wines are extremely refreshing. Enjoying either alongside Deb's recipe would most certainly be a welcomed treat during the dog days of summer!


For Albarino, seek out Martin Codax. And for Godello, Val de Sil Montenovo is a moderately priced way to start! Delicious!

green on green

Deborah

Last night my book group converged on my home to discuss Richard Yates' novel Cold Spring Harbor. Yates also wrote Revolutionary Road and his themes of American angst and domestic unease always suit our group. We are rabid readers of classic fiction and combine our literary passion with lots of eating and wine drinking.

Some times our literary passions get the better of us. A casualty of the table.

Freshly picked flowers from the garden contributed to the Springtime mood of the evening.

Our book discussions are conducted over dinner and they are the highlight of my month. I t is especially fun when it is my turn to host. Spring weather was on the menu. I put fresh greens and herbs into every dish. My trip to Union Square Green Market earlier in the week resulted in armloads of mixed greens and lettuces. I made a braise of artichoke hearts, edamame and peas with a splash of white wine and a large handful of pea shoots. 

Braised Artichoke Hearts with Edamame and Peas

I found a vendor who sold beautiful loose mixed baby greens and I quickly filled a large bag. All I needed to do was heat some olive oil in a saute pan, I then added garlic cloves and chile peppers, cooked garlic till golden, added about a two inch piece of peeled ginger sliced, and then the greens, still a bit wet from being washed. They cooked down to a tender wilt in about three minutes.

Spicy Greens with Ginger

These two simple dishes really highlighted what is best at the farmer's markets right now. Young fresh  greens can go into everything, they cook quickly and are good for you!

Wine pairing, however, may be a challenge. Amanda, What would you serve?

Amanda
Yes, the wine pairing would be a little challenging. But we could definitely make it work! For the first dish, be sure to stay with something bright and crisp with good acidity. Artichokes are one of those "difficult" vegetables to pair with wine, but I wouldn't say impossible. First, out of curiousity, how long did you braise the veggies? Just wondering how long you needed to let the artichokes cook. I don't have a whole lot of experience preparing them - but I love them!


A nice clean Sauvignon Blanc, or crisp Albarino would do the trick here. Something "zippy" would work well. You could even use the same wine for the braising. These wines are fresh, and I think the crisp, lively quality of these wines would be a great complement to this light, warm-weather dish.


Now, a question about the greens - what type of greens were in the mix? They do look beautiful! But these aren't salad greens, correct? I would think those wouldn't stand up to sauteeing? These look more like swiss chard or collard greens? I can't tell exactly what they are from the picture. Just curious.


Again, for this light dish I would stick with white. Something from Alsace, France would be my first choice. Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris or Riesling would all work well. Whenever I think of ginger, I consider these wine options. Definitely stick with something "dry" for this recipe. Zind-Humbrecht is one of my favorite Alsace producers, and makes many wonderful wines. Their Gewurztraminer is to die for, as are most of their gems! Hugel et fils is another producer to look for, and they have an affordable line-up as well.

stepping out

Deborah
When lilac blossoms appear on the trees (and show up as bouquets in the bodegas around NY) it is time to begin thinking about grilling. There are many ways to approach grilled vegetables, but as you may know, I like to keep things simple. Easy. Not too complicated. Grilling should be fun and a little primitive. You can't help but get a little messy and I always manage to lose a few pieces into the fire, no matter how careful I am.
Amanda and I would like to share some of our favorite grilled vegetable recipes over the next few weeks. As always, technique is key. Once you have that down inspiration can take over. Prepping the vegetables is really where the work is involved here. I like to slice raw vegetables, like carrots and zucchini, thin- about 3/4", so that they cook through quickly and evenly. Par-cooked vegetables can be cut thicker. Leafy heads of lettuce like escarole and radicchio can just be sliced in half, with the core intact to keep the leaves together.
I don't really marinate vegetables, just brush with olive oil and dust with herbs and spices, but I am not opposed to it. Just remember to dry off anything that is wet before you put it on the grill for best results.

A pan of vegetables all ready for the grill. I use the lemon half to scrub the hot grill clean and discard.

For this meal I pulled out what I had in the fridge, always a hodge-podge. I find potatoes cook best when par-boiled or microwaved till almost tender. The grill will give them a nice golden finish. Most vegetables are grilled raw. Asparagus can be thrown on whole and the cauliflower (which turned out to be DELICIOUS grilled) gets sliced into more or less even thickness without driving myself crazy measuring.

To determine doneness I aim for tenderness and a touch of color. For a long time I only grilled the traditional vegetables like carrots, zucchini, onions and peppers, but I am starting to expand my opinion on what works on the grill and will report here some of my new finds. The cauliflower was a revelation, for example, and I can't believe it took me this long to figure it out. 

A PARTIAL LIST of Vegetables to Grill 

Raw: carrots, tomatoes, zucchini, onions, cauliflower, mushrooms, scallions, radicchio, escarole, peppers, asparagus

Par-boiled or micro: potatoes, sweet potatoes, winter squashes, Brussels sprouts, leeks

Jury is still out on: broccoli, green beans

Have fun grilling and let us know what you think works.

Amanda
I am in love with my new grill. It's true. I clean it after every use, so it's shiny "newness" stays just that way. It's my new "baby". Right now I'm all about grilling vegetables. I grill anything "grillable". One comment on Deb's mention of green beans - delicious grilled, raw. A week or so ago, I followed a recipe in Andrea Chesman's wonderful new book, The New Vegetarian Grill: 250 Flame-Kissed Recipes for Fresh, Inspired Meals for grilled green beans. Basically, I tossed them in an Asian vinaigrette, and threw them on a vegetable grilling tray. I grilled them until a little brown. Then, I actually tossed them with some arugula and grilled shitakes, and drizzled a little of the vinaigrette on the finished product. I have to say, it was outstanding. Even my non-vegetable-eating husband thought they were delicious! They actually tasted like something from a Chinese restaurant!


I can't wait to elaborate more on some of the grilled recipes I've tried in future posts! But right now, I want to comment on wine. Unless there is a specific sauce or marinade you are using for your grilled veggies, you don't really need to think too much about what wine to drink. If there is a sauce or marinade, then what you choose will definitely require more thought.


During the summer, I  barbeque A LOT. I have my regular "go to" wines that I enjoy during barbeque season. For reds, Zinfandel never fails for grilled delights. Also - I never select expensive wines. Grilling demands inexpensive, "fun" wines - not overly complex or serious. For wonderful Zinfandel producers, check out Rosenblum or Seghesio. Ravenswood also carries a line of very inexpensive Zins. I also will look to Australia for some affordable Shiraz, or Grenache. D'Arenberg creates some delicious "everyday" wines that are a sure-fire hit every time.


For whites, I like to sip "summery" wines. Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, and Torrontes are some of my favorites. These make perfect choices for simple grilled veggie dishes. You can't go wrong with any of these! And, having plenty of Rose on hand is not a bad option either. Spanish Roses are entirely affordable, fruit-filled wines. These can even be found for $7-$10. There are so many terrific producers, be sure to ask your local retailer for advice.


Remember, keep it simple. Fun wines will work best with barbeque. Save the serious stuff for more serious dinners and special occasions!

a locavore meal, almost

Deborah

Locavore: one who eats foods grown locally whenever possible

Spent the afternoon with a dear friend who I have not seen in a long time, sustainable food blogger and committed locavore Mary Nelen. Mary, who writes the blog Valley Locavore,  filled me in on what is going on in her community of Northern Massachusetts where a strong DIY food ethic flourishes. She boasted of canning and preserving and shaking hands with farm animal. All very cool and admirable. We decided we would make lunch together during our visit. Mary supplied the broccoli rabe from a farmers market and I rummaged through my fridge at home to pull out some tofu (locally made!) and shitake mushrooms (I have no idea where they came from, oops) and some red quinoa I thought Mary might be interested in.
I also contributed a large handful of fresh herbs that I pulled out of my garden just before leaving the house to meet her (how much fresher can you get?)

The Upper West Side where Mary was staying was in full bloom Spring mode.

Our plan was simple, we would gab away with each other a mile a minute and give barely a fleeting thought to the meal. Kind of like cooking on auto pilot. I made the quinoa while Mary prepped the broccoli rabe.

I guess we could have used a slightly larger pan for the broccoli rabe.

The kitchen we were borrowing was minimally stocked and equipped. I did a quick sautee of the mushrooms and then the tofu which we cut into cubes. We found an onion in reasonable shape, chopped it up, sauteed it with the broccoli rabe and then threw in all the chopped herbs. The tofu and mushrooms went back into the pan and we mixed it all together.

The herbs coming up in my garden now are mint, lemon balm, sorrel, chives and oregano. I roughly chop them all together and add them to almost any dish right at the end of cooking to add freshness and depth.

We cooked the shitake mushrooms and the tofu separately, just enough to get a little brown crust for flavor and texture.

The finished dish: a mound of steamed red quinoa surrounded by the sauteed vegetables and tofu.

It was a simple, tasty, easy and healthy meal, which meant we could drink wine and not feel guilty.  What can I say, talking makes you thirsty. We drank white wine which seemed a good choice. How did we do Amanda?

Amanda
A good friend, delicious, easy lunch, and a nice bottle of wine. Sounds like a pretty great afternoon! Question - you don't blanch the broccoli rabe first? Just toss it right into the pan? I'm always in a quandry about that whenever I prepare it. I never really know when to blanch and when to just sautee. Any recommendations or thoughts on this?


Yes, I am in agreement regarding your wine choice! I think any light, crisp white would really work fine here. I wouldn't give it too much thought. Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadet, Pinot Grigio - all fine, simple choices. You and Mary had set out to have a fun, easy afternoon together which does not require hemming and hawing over a wine. Just go with something fun for an occasion like this. I find that Prosecco is always a great afternoon libation to enjoy with friends, especially as the warmer weather hits. Prosecco is a staple on my block for afternoon/early evening barbeques. This light, refreshing, frizzante wine from Italy is always a huge hit.

Prosecco is made from a grape by the same name, and hails from the Veneto region of Italy. Very versatile, you can really enjoy it with a wide variety of fare. It's great for brunches, showers, and large get-togethers - it is Italy's answer to Champagne, minus the hefty pricetag. For great examples of this inexpensive sparkler, look to producers Bisol, Riondo, Caposaldo and Zardetto.


Choosing a wine should never cause stress or too much thought. Wine is best when shared with friends. As long as the "indulgers" enjoy it - that is all that matters! But I do recommend keeping a few bottles on hand as Prosecco is a great bottle to open for unexpected guests!

Presto, pesto!

Deborah
Life has never been the same once I learned (by heart) Marcella Hazan's basil pesto recipe from her seminal tome The Classic Italian Cookbook. It is the classic of the classics and the very first pesto recipe I had ever encountered waaaaaaaaaaaaaay back when.  These days I make pesto in every imaginable configuration- substituting all kinds of herbs and nuts and combinations there-of for the traditional basil and pine nuts, but retaining the tried and true proportions of herb to nut to garlic to olive oil. The results are always happy, which just encourages my wayward instincts.  The real payoff for me is that ALL four kids in my household will actually eat pesto in all its mutations and THAT alone is worth getting happy over.

I like to mix vegetables in with the pasta and the pesto, steaming them in the same water I cook the pasta in. Some good choices are broccoli, peas, green bean, cherry tomatoes, and zucchini.

The family was all home and hungry this week when I looked in the fridge to find spinach and parsley. Perfect. Went for it. Replaced the pine nuts with pepitas and we were good to go. Dinner in minutes and everybody ate!

My friend Dawn in Brookfield, CT. gets a head start growing her own pesto herbs from seed. 

Classic Pesto
by Marcella Hazan (& substitutes by ME):

-2 cloves garlic, crushed with side of knife (there is no substitute for garlic!)
-2 Tbs  pine nuts- I generally use more (pepitas, pecans, walnuts, cashews, macadamia)
-1 teas. salt
-2 cups fresh basil lightly packed (spinach, parsley, arugula, cilantro)
-1/2 cup of olive oil- I generally use LESS
-1/2 cup freshly grated parmesean cheese
-2 Tbs. Romano pecorino cheese
-3 Tbs. Butter, soft- I NEVER put this in, seems unnecessary to me

Place the garlic, nuts, salt and basil and half the olive oil in a food processor in that order,start to process and as the machine is running, slowly drizzle in enough of the remaining olive oil to  get a smooth paste. Remove pesto to a small bowl and beat in the cheese and butter (if using) by hand. If serving pesto over pasta ladle in a few tablespoons of the pasta water into the pesto to thin in out a bit before tossing over the pasta.


Amanda
I never thought of making pasta with pesto for my children. At ages 4 1/2 and 6, they still shy away from anything green. It makes for very difficult food preparation! Though my son does love salad, thankfully. If only they would try pesto,I know they would love it. What's not to love?


I am going to make a point of trying this pesto recipe with macadamia nuts. My favorite! And I can't wait for my basil to start growing in abundance! I started it from seeds, as I did parsley. So I should have no shortage of pesto this summer.


White or red would work just fine with this recipe, including any and all versions! Just depends upon your mood. In particular, there are many styles and varieties of whites that would be delicious with pesto. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Albarino. My inclination would be to look towards Italy for the perfect match. Vermentino. Currently grown in several Mediterranean countries, it is most commonly associated with Northern Italy, specifically Liguria and the island of Sardinia. The wines are crisp, citrusy with bright acidity. For an afternoon lunch on a warm Spring day, I would lean towards white. It is a refreshing wine, and will also pair very well with a variety of vegetables as well as seafood.


I recently tried the Casanova della Spinetta Toscana Vermentino 2009 (their first vintage) and it was spectacular! It is medium-bodied with flavors of peach and apricot on the palate. Just so enjoyable and very affordable ($15.99)

For red, I would choose something with a bit of old world earthiness, such as a Rosso di Montalcino. The earthy quality of the wine would do well next to the pesto. Rosso di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese, and is considered to be the younger sibling to Brunello. You can enjoy the Rosso with a variety of cheeses as well. This stunning Sangiovese is a little pricier (but well worth it) at around $21.99. Argiano is a great producer to go to for incredible, classic Tuscan wines.

better than snow shoveling

The wind is howling and the temperature has dropped. Yes, I am in Florida on a winter break, hahaha! I am not complaining. We are guests in my mother-in-laws beautiful home overlooking Sarasota Bay. I can see pelicans and herons soaring past the large plate glass window looking for their breakfast in wind whipped water. Peace and tranquility abounds.

A windy walk on the beach. The air temperatures barely brushed the low 50s.

For me the big event of the trip is a visit to the Saturday farmer's market. I have to say that Sarasota is a little loose in their definition of farmer's market. It is really more of an outdoor produce market. Much of what is sold comes from as far as California. I am not sure that the concept of local produce has been grasped here. As a shopper you have to pay attention to what each vendor is selling and ask where it comes from. I even came across the ubiquitous garlic from China. Seriously.

The sights and sounds of beautiful fruit and vegetables managed to sooth my cranky soul and I sent the kids forth to gather the ingredients for tomato salsa, a task they readily complied with as this is one of their most favorite treats. I taught them this recipe years ago and it has become a fun group project with the big payoff, typical of kitchen activities, that we get to eat our efforts!

Which brings me to this video of chef Jamie Oliver talking about the state of our collective eating habits in this country. The video was brought to my attention in a post from blogger, cook book writer and famed Long Island City dinner party hostess Zora O'Neill. Thank you, Zora.
Oliver is blunt in his assesment, to say the least. AND I have always found him to be way too fond of his own pretty face which he plasters on everything that passes through his hands. None-the-less, his message is a good one and stimulates plenty of thought. Teaching our children to cook is a very worthy endeavor and I have to admit that for all my home cooking, my kids could learn a few more lessons by the stove. I compiled a list of foods they knew how to cook by themselves at a young age and I see they certainly could survive on it, perhaps not thrive. So my mission is to encourage us all to teach our survive and thrive skills to those we love.

10 FOODS MY KIDS COULD COOK THEMSELVES by the age of 10

French Toast

Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Salsa

Quesadillas

Guacamole

Pasta with cheese and peas

Tuna salad sandwich

Scrambled eggs

Green Salad

Spaghetti and Tomato Sauce

Ok, lets get back to salsa- fun and easy to make, it turns any occassion into a party. We are talking basically a big wet salad made from fresh ingredients. Even vegetable haters love it. Show the kids how to make this and they will party for life!

After you finish this life lesson you may want to relax and sip some wine while nibbling on whatever salsa the kids leave in the bowl, which probably won't be much. Amanda, does any wine pairing come to mind for Tomato Salsa?

Tomato Salsa
1 large tomato finely chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, minced
1/4 cup onion, finely chopped
3 Tbs. cilantro, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
Juice of 1 lime
Place all ingredients in a bowl and allow to marinate for 15 minutes before serving.

Amanda
Love this post, Deb! Let me first say that I can only hope that by age 10 my children are eating tuna salad, guacamole and peas. Not in their repertoire as of yet, at ages 6 and 4. But as my husband and I love all things food, I am praying my children will follow suit. I feel fortunate that I am married to a culinary graduate, and it would be a wonderful pleasure should my kids inherit his culinary talents! Currently, my kids can fix their own breakfast as long as it's candy and is within their reach. (Even if it's not within their reach, they will go to great lengths to get it). Yesterday morning, I tried to "sleep in" a little. At 9:15 am I went downstairs to find my son, chocolate lollipop in hand (and on face), and my daughter holding a box of gumdrops in one hand and 3 tootsie roll pops in the other. Yes, I do have to start working on their culinary skills.


Well, this recipe is making me crave salsa and chips! I usually take the easy way out and purchase "home-made" salsa from Whole Foods, or Kings. I think it's time I made my own. But to answer Deb's question - yes! A wine pairing absolutely comes to mind! When I think of salsa, I immediately think of a crisp, lively, refreshing white. While this is the sort of wine I'd be more apt to drink in the warmer weather, I can't think of anything I'd enjoy more with this fresh, bright salsa.


Albarino would be my first choice for this recipe. This white varietal is grown primarily in Galicia, in northwest Spain. The Rias Baixas DO is particularly known for producing a significant amount of this grape. Albarinos typically are very aromatic, and light, with ripe fruit flavors of apple, citrus fruit and peach. The wines are crisp with lively, bright acidity.

Bodegas Martin Codax is known for making wonderful Albarinos. The 2008 Burgans Albarino from Bodegas Martin Codax is one of my favorite everyday white wines. (when purchasing an Albarino, always be sure to get one from a recent vintage - the wines do not age well.  Younger is better). The Burgans is fruity and complex with great balance - and a great value at $12.99.


I am having a "mom's night out" at my home on March 19th, to welcome Spring. I have been thinking of the menu. Now I have one more recipe to add! Thanks, Deb!