Showing posts with label vegetable stock. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vegetable stock. Show all posts

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Can't Beet This

Amanda
If you are enamoured by wine, and have a love of food, I highly recommend entering the wine industry. One of the many perks of the trade is being involved with, and attending, a myriad of food and wine events. Not to mention tasting upwards of 5-10 wines daily, sometimes in the company of the new-on-the-scene, or world-renowned winemaker. Definitely makes for an interesting, exciting career!


The other day I was thrilled to be invited to a luncheon featuring the wines from Stephan Asseo and L'Aventure. These wines would make any California wine lover's palate jump for joy. The wines are superb, (definitely not cheap), and are always very well received by the experts. And, they are very limited in production.


We dined at Chez Catherine in Westfield, NJ - a very quaint, pretty, classic French Bistro owned by Didier Jouvenet since 1979. A five course meal was prepared for our table of eight, each course paired with a different wine. Michael Young, marketing director for L'Aventure, talked about the wines as we sipped, ate, and indulged.

Michael making a toast. All of the glasses in front of the empty seat to his right are mine :)

The highlight of my meal was the Baby Beet Risotto with Ricotta Salata. It was so mouthwatering-ly delicious, and so, so pretty! The Risotto was paired with the L'Aventure Optimus, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. This is a big, juicy wine full of spice - but it worked with the dish. Probably because of the cheese content of the risotto, rendering it creamy and flavorful. The Risotto was definitely able to stand up to this wonderfully concentrated, fruit-forward wine.


Deb - last summer you shared a recipe for Risotto with Tomato and Fennel with us. To date, this is one of my favorite recipes of all time. It was incredible. Do you think you could give us your own take on the Risotto I have written about? I would love to re-create it!
The Baby Beet Risotto with Ricotta Salata (and finished with a touch of Parmesan Foam)

I'm fine with omitting the Parmesan foam! Deb, how would I go about tackling this?

Deborah
Hmmm... "enamoured by wine and have a love of food" that sounds like me! What would I be doing in the wine indusrty? Do they need more tasters? :-)

Your beet risotto dish looks lovely. The color alone gives it a festive air, perfect for a formal Spring lunch or dinner. Truth be told, beets have never been high on my list of things I like to eat. It wasn't until I went to culinary school that I learned to appreciate their role in a vegetarian diet. Obviously the color can't be beat (ha!), but that inky red juice can wreak havoc during kitchen prep on hands, clothes and countertops and overwhelm a dish that may not have wanted to be red in the first place. 

No, I didn't cut myself! Just some of the mess of beets.

I am still not a beet lover and am only interested in them if they are well roasted with a serious caramelization going on, which somehow tames the cloying sweetness of your average beet. That's right, I don't like beets. 

If they are cut small beets and carrots take about 35 minutes in a 400 degree oven to roast.

Sooooooo, if I were to make this dish I would approach it a little differently and start by cubing up a beet  and roasting it, then make the risotto and stir in the roasted beets at the end. Rather than a homogenous pink it would be more of a white risotto with dramatic flecks of red. I decided to experiment a little further rather than just shooting my mouth off- so here I go:

Two Beet Risottos

With the first risotto I attempted to recreate (or at least approximate) the dish Amanda sampled at her tasting (did you say there were openings in the wine business, Amanda?) I boiled the beet till tender, then chopped it up fine and added it to the risotto early in the cooking process. I used the water I boiled the beets in as the liquid for the rice to further dramatize the color of the dish. The scarlet-pinky color in Amanda's photo reminded me of classic Borscht so for fun I added a shot of vodka to the saute pan and finished the dish with sour cream. I never achieved the exact color I was after (darn those beets) and I believe I would have to add more sour cream to get there.

My borscht-style risotto never quite got as pink as the one Amanda sampled at her tasting.

With the second risotto I allowed myself to play with the idea of a beet risotto that would appeal to the non-beet lover. In addition to the roasted beets I included some roasted carrots to add some additional color. Near the end of cooking I added some chopped swiss chard for yet another color.

Rustic kitchen style beet risotto. 

The results:
Both dishes tasted very good. The "borscht" style risotto was very rich from the sour cream and had a pronounced BEET taste. The second risotto- the more country kitchen version, was great too, with more variety of flavor and a lot less sweet. I begged my teenage daughter (who does not like beets) to try each one for me and she balked. I begged further and got her to try a tiny bite of each. She instantly liked the rustic version better and asked me if she could finish it. Yeah, sure!

Borscht Style Beet Risotto
1 beet peeled and quartered
3 cups of salted water 
3 Tbs. Butter
2 Tbs. extra virgin Olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1/2 teas. salt
1 cup arborio rice
1 /4 cup vodka
1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup grated romano or parmesan cheese

Place beets in a sauce pan with the salted water and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes, until beets are tender. Remove beets with a slotted spoon and set aside to cool. Reserve the cooking liquid and keep it on a low simmer. When the beets are cool enough to handle chop them finely.
Heat the butter and the olive oil in large sauce pan. When butter is warm and melted add the onions and 1/2 teas. salt. Sweat the onions a few minutes until they are soft and translucent. Add the rice and stir in pan until all grains are coated and begin to look a little clear. Add the finely chopped beets and cook another minute. Pour in the vodka and let the pan simmer until the liquid is absorbed. Begin to slowly add the simmering beet water by the ladleful, allowing the liquid to absorb into the rice before adding the next ladleful. When the rice becomes creamy  and bit al dente, but cooked through, add the sour cream and grated cheese, stirring to combine.
Serves four

Rustic Style Beet Risotto
1 beet peeled and cut into small cubes
1 carrot peeled and cut into small cubes
1 Tbs. olive oil
1/2 teas. salt
3 Tbs. Butter
2 Tbs. extra virgin Olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1/2 teas. salt
1 cup arborio rice
3 cups simmering salted water or vegetable stock
1/2 cup swiss chard, chopped
1/2 cup grated romano or parmesan cheese

Pre heat oven to 400 degrees. Toss beets and carrot with the olive oil and salt and roast in the hot oven for 35-40 minutes until tender. When cooked, set aside to cool. Once cool enough to handle, roughly chop the roasted vegetables into even smaller cubes and set aside.

Heat the butter and the olive oil in large sauce pan. When butter is warm and melted add the onions and salt. Sweat the vegetables a few minutes until they are soft and translucent. Add rice and stir in pan until all grains are coated and begin to look a little clear. Begin to slowly add the simmering water or stock by the ladleful, allowing the liquid to absorb into the rice before adding the next ladleful. the rice is done. When the rice is creamy and a bit al dente but cooked through stir in the swiss chard and allow to cook for 2-3 minutes. Add more hot water as necessary. WHen the chard is wilted, stir in the roasted beets and carrots stirring to combine. Add the cheese and adjust seasoning.
Serves four





Sunday, March 21, 2010

a change of scene

Deborah
Body baring weather is quickly upon us. My season changing ritual is to head to a day spa for some desperately needed rejuvenation. It seems that Koran spas specialize in body scrubs and that is what I am looking for when shedding the winter doldrums. My current favorite is Aura Wellness Spa on 33rd Street in Manhattan. The polished interior makes me feel pampered, it has never been crowded any time I go, AND they have these amazing igloo shaped saunas and steam rooms with crystal incrusted interiors. You have to see it to believe it. The decor says relax and indulge but once you get behind the treatment-room doors it is all business. The body scrubs are SERIOUS and I happily endured the aggressive handling in order to kiss my winter skin behind.

Skipping home post-scrub all smooth and silky I passed by countless Korean restaurants with very tempting menus and I had kimchee on my mind. But pressed for time I headed straight home to stir up some miso soup for myself.
Thinly sliced vegetables cook quickly in Miso soup and still retain a little crunch.

Miso is so versatile and is really easy to use. There are many traditional recipes for miso soup, but I allow myself to improvise for a quick light meal. This version started with some stock (vegetable or chicken), the miso, a handful of thinly sliced vegetables, a sheet of nori cut into thin strips and some rice noodles. Within 10 minutes I had a delicious and very satisfying soup. 

My new skin and I are going on a week long vacation with my husband to the Caribbean Island of Antigua. I have arranged to take a cooking class while I am there with cooking instructor Nicole Arthurton who runs the cooking school out of her beautiful home. I am SO EXCITED and can't wait to share with you what I learn from Nicole when I get back.


Simple Miso Soup
4 cups Vegetable or Chicken Stock
1 cup of thinly sliced Vegetables (scallions, zucchini, celery, carrot, cabbage, green bean, snow pea, etc.)
1 sheet of Nori cut into thin ribbons (I fold the sheet of nori up and use a scissor to cut it)
4 oz Rice Noodles soaked in hot water for 10 minutes and drained
4 Tbs. Miso
1 Tbs. Soy Sauce
1 Tbs. Sesame Oil

Heat the stock in a sauce pan, when it comes to a simmer add the vegetables and cook for 5 minutes. Ladle from the pot about half a cup of the stock and put it into a small bowl. Mix the miso into the bowl to thin it out. Pour the miso mixture back into the soup pot. Add the noodles, soy sauce and sesame oil and simmer for one more minute. ENJOY!

Rice noodles come in lots of shapes and sizes. I have seen different instructions for cooking on various packages from adding cold water, to boiling water, to luke warm water. It seems to work fine if you soak the noodles in warm water for 5-8 minutes till noodles are tender and then use them in a soup or stir fry. 

Amanda
I hope you are enjoying a relaxing, wonderful vacation, Deb! Sounds terrific. I cannot wait to hear about it - especially the cooking class!

I happened to be in Whole Foods this afternoon, and picked up the ingredients for this soup. I am a huge fan of Miso Soup and it is always a must when I go out for Japanese. This was my first attempt at the soup, and I was happy to see how incredibly easy and quick it was. But it didn't taste anything remotely akin to restaurant miso. It was good - just very different. Deb - isn't miso, well...miso? What could account for such a completely dissimilar flavor? Would it have to do with the brand of miso? Are there different qualities or blends?

I followed Deb's basic recipe, but added a twist here and there. I did not use noodles. And, instead of the nori seawood, I used Akame. It is actually more noodle-like, and I used quite a bit of it, along with onions, carrots and cabbage. I intentionally filled it up with veggies and seaweed to make it a little more substantial and hearty - so I could have it for lunch all week and it would satisfy me. (My appetite is on the bigger side). The soup came out light and delicious - and filling.

But - as for the wine - there really is no wine that I would pair with this. There is honestly not one that I could think of that I would want to sip alongside Miso Soup. However, whenever I dine on Japanese food, I love to sip Sake. Not the inexpensive, warm, not-so-great quality Sake. I love the higher-end, sublime Sakes that have a higher percent of the rice grain polished away (which makes a higher quality Sake). I find the varied flavors and styles of Sake so incredibly delicious, and interesting; and I would not hesitate to make it my drink of choice when it comes to Miso Soup.

While Sake is referred to as a "rice wine", it is actually brewed more in the style of beer, then fermented like wine. Futsu-shu is ordinary Sake, with the same status as table wine. Tokubetsu is special or premium Sake - the kind I enjoy. These Sakes are distinguished by the degree to which the rice is polished.

Recently, I participated in a sushi and Sake tasting at which I tasted a wonderful line-up of premium Sakes. One of my favorites was Ama No To Heaven's Door Tokubetsu Junmai. (at least 30% of the rice grain is polished away). With a slightly earthy, raisiny flavor and subtle elegance, this Sake would work perfectly next to Miso Soup. I love the idea of this combination! The Ama No To Heaven's Door can be found for around $34.