like Mama makes

Deborah

Vegetable gardens are in their glory right now. We are beginning to be bombarded with a plethora of fresh produce choices and, may I ask: what are we to do with it all?

I am so excited about my tiny crop of heirloom tomatoes!

Things have gotten a little overgrown. Treasures await to be uncovered!

I planted these radishes in May and they went right to seed. Now I have a lot of seeds. The pods are pretty, but I don't think edible. Maybe I can use the seeds to grow radishes in the fall. I wonder?

Gazpacho becomes the obvious solution. This cold liquid salad-as-a-soup can absorb all sorts of vegetables and herbs into it's mix and still maintain an identity. The version I make is based on a recipe my mother taught me years ago. Her source was more than likely something she read in Gourmet Magazine back in the 70's. It was the perfect recipe back then for using the brand new cooking gadget on the market - the food processor. I doubt gazpacho would have made many inroads in American kitchens before that. I recall my gazpacho crash course as a young girl when my mother decided to sell cups of gazpacho at our neighborhood street fair (W. 70th Street in Manhattan, circa 1970's. Were you there?) The gazpacho was so popular it was quickly sold out and my sister and I were sent back into the kitchen to crank out more batches all day long.

I retain a fondness for this clever Spanish originated soup to this day. The following recipe is just used as a touchstone for me as I now distort the basic concept to suit my mood and available ingredients. I don't believe even this version is quite authentic, but it tastes great and is fun to make when days are hot and tomatoes are plentiful.

Barbara's Gazpacho

1 clove Garlic

4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and quartered

1/2 green or red bell pepper, seeded and sliced

1/2 small onion, quartered

1 cucumber, peeled and coarsely sliced

1 teas. salt

1/4 teas. pepper

2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil

3 Tbs. red wine vinegar

1/2 cup ice cold water

Place all ingredients into a food processor or blender and puree until desired consistency. 

Chill for 1/2 hour and serve.

Amanda
Gazpacho has been one of my favorite summertime enjoyments for about 30 years now. I make batches of it all summer long. A well-chilled bowl in hot weather is a delightfully healthy meal. I used to try a plethora of recipes in search of the perfect one. There are so many different ways to make it - but there is a distinct style I prefer, and it is one I have tried to master for years. I finally gave up on recipes, and found my own path. Deb's recipe is very similar to the way I concoct my own version, the main difference being that I add a lot of diced vegetables to the puree. I have a pretty hearty appetite. My reason for making a "chunkier" version is really only to make it a little more filling. As an appetizer, I enjoy the pureed version. As a main course, I add lots of veggies and chopped avocado as well, only to leave my appetite satisfied.

As for wine, I want a crisp fresh white with Gazpacho. To stick with the Gazpacho's Spanish background, I might opt for a Spanish white. Foods from different regions have a particular affinity for the wines from the same regions. Albarino would be a perfect match, especially on a hot summer's day. Albarino is grown in Galicia in northwest Spain. It is typically high in acidity, with stone fruit flavors. Another wonderful option would be one of my favorite white varietals - Godello. Also grown in northwest Spain, Godello produces some very fine wines. Godellos are elegant, with terrific minerality combined with bright acidity, wonderful aromatics, and flavors of peach and melon. A little oak will add to the wine's depth and complexity - but Godello's are not well-suited to a superfluous use of oak. Beware of the over-oaked ones.


Both wines are extremely refreshing. Enjoying either alongside Deb's recipe would most certainly be a welcomed treat during the dog days of summer!


For Albarino, seek out Martin Codax. And for Godello, Val de Sil Montenovo is a moderately priced way to start! Delicious!

A Little Comfort

Deborah

The weather is changing. The cheeks I am kissing are cool to the touch. It is officially fall. I am slow to accept this change. My garden looks awful. The mint looks mangy, my echinechia is black. I have been so busy cooking I have not had a chance to tidy up back there. I need some comfort food to console me for the inevitable farewell to backyard picnics for a while.

Comfort food for me is represented by one orange clogs wearing package, Mario Batali. Don't ask me why, I'm not Italian. Somehow Batali's food speaks to my inner soul. Simple yet rigourous cooking techniques combined with excellent ingredients is how I would characterize his style. I loved his TV show, I adore his cook books and I would eat in any of his restuarants anytime I am invited. :- )

It is always in the fall and winter that I turn to Battali's recipes. I am thinking now of a cauliflower soup I watched him demo on Molto Mario a few years ago. It was so basic and so smart and when I made it soooooooo good. Cauliflower is often a hard sell in my house, but this soup manages to woo even the most skeptical. The flavor is earthy and nutty, warming to the mouth and soul. When I make it for myself I sometimes leave out the tomatoes. I also don't always have homemade stock on hand and so will use store bought (with out compromising anything except bragging rights).

I did a little search on the web to see who else likes this recipe and it turns out just about everybody. Every cooking blog and cooking web site has it posted. Ok, maybe not EVERY site, but almost. Which just proves that it is GOOD! So give it a try and get yourself a little comfort.


(My version of) Mario Batali's
Cauliflower Soup: Minestra di Cavolofiore

2 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound cauliflower, cut into florets
4 cups Brown Chicken or vegetable Stock
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 bay leaves
Pinch red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup grated Parmesan

In a pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat, and add the cauliflower. Stir over high heat for 5 minutes, until the cauliflower is just beginning to get tender. Add the garlic and cook another minute till garlic begins to soften. Add stock, bay leaf, pepper flakes, and salt and pepper, to taste. Bring to a boil. Then reduce to a simmer and cook until the cauliflower is tender, about 15 minutes. Add water, if necessary, to ensure that all the cauliflower is submerged in hot liquid.
Add grated cheese to the simmering soup to finish cooking for one more minute. Season with salt and pepper, and drizzle with a little high quality extra-virgin olive oil before serving.

4 servings

I added some shredded collard greens that I had on hand. Batali's recipes are a reflection of peasant style cooking, and lend themselves well to an improvisational style where you use what you have.

Amanda
I am going to make this tomorrow! I've been waiting for a wonderful, "fall" soup recipe to come into my life! But I must say, you had me stumped on this one. I was having a difficult time coming up with a wine to enjoy along side this soup. I had two things going against me: first, generally, wine is very difficult to pair with soup. Second, cauliflower is a tough match for wine. So, after tossing around a few ideas in my mind, I appealed to my boss, Chuck Russo, owner of Wine and Spirit World. His family has been in the wine industry for 60 years, so I figured if anyone had a recommendation, it would be Chuck. Definitely white, he suggested. We discussed a few options and finely decided that a nice refreshing white would be the best option. Spanish white, such as an albarino would work well. Godello would also be a delicious option. Godello is Spain's answer to Chardonnay. Rich and wonderful, it is one of my favorite white varietals. For producers, look for Val de Sil. They make a few different ones and all are in the $12 to $20 price range.