jazz and mash

Deborah

These are days to stay indoors and keep warm, but not according to my husband. Cooped up in an office all week, when the weekend rolls around he wants to go OUT! No, we didn't play in the snow, but instead bundled up and made our way to a very cool little venue in the East Village to hear the Rob Brown group play some experimental jazz. At least I think that is what it was. A very different sound than the more classic jazz I heard at the Village Vanguard last week. The venue, University of the Streets , is a performing arts space founded in 1969. It is true survivor of the city, reinventing itself over the years to stay afloat. This not-for-profit is hosting a wonderful jazz series over the next few weeks and it is worth checking out.
After the performance we went for dinner at Lina Frey, an attractive open dining space on Houston street serving modern French cuisine, a bistro nouveau as they call themselves.  Our waitress was very sweet, the noise level was very LOUD and the food was very good. In addition to Moules au Poivre, I ordered a bunch of vegetable side dishes. The roasted cauliflower puree sounded too good to pass up. It turned out to be not so much a puree, but more of a rough mash. The flavor was great and we gobbled it up.
I loved the idea of this preparation and decided to make my own version at home. I did not exactly recreate their dish, but I made something delicious and I thank Lina Frey for the great idea!

Roasted Mashed Cauliflower

1 head of cauliflower, broken into florets
4-6 cloves of garlic, peeled and left whole
1/2 a lemon cut into quarters
4 Tbs. Olive oil
Salt
Pepper
1/2 cup milk or cream

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Lay the cauliflower, garlic and lemon on a baking sheet and toss with the olive oil and s & p to taste. Roast till tender about 35-40 minutes. Put the cauliflower and garlic in a food processor (pick out the lemon and squeeze the juice over the vegetables) and pulse to a rough puree. Drizzle in the milk or cream and pulse a few more times to combine.
Serves four.

When roasting cauliflower I like to leave the florets fairly large and I roast some of the cauliflower leaves as well.

 

Let the cauliflower gets some nice brown crispy spots to add lots of flavor to the mash.

spice and jazz

Deborah

What a treat to go see jazz saxophonist James Lovano play with his combo last night. On stand-up bass was none other than Esperanza Spalding, the object of my ongoing girl crush. I had seen Esperanza perform this summer at Summer Stage in Central Park and afterward I created a tribute recipe in her honor in a blog post back in June. Last night at the Village Vanguard, a far more intimate setting that is steeped in jazz history and tradition, I got an up close experience of her incredible musical talent. As it turns out, my friend Cathy, who was attending the performance with me, casually mentions that she had spent Thanksgiving dinner with Esperanza and some mutual friends! Say what!? After the performance (which was an amazing evening of Charlie Parker tunes) Cathy and Esperanza exchanged hugs and I was introduced and actually got to shake Ms. Spalding's surprisingly delicate, but very nimble and musically confident hand. She is an elfin beauty who at 25 could pass for 15, yet has the soul of someone alive a hundred years as she easily held her own on stage with seasoned jazz musicians who were likely twice her age.
Catch Esperanza perform if you can. She is a lovely rare talent and a joy to behold.

Again I have created a recipe in Esperanza's honor. This time, in keeping with the season, I was looking to create something a little earthy, but with lots of spice. My sister had recently sent me a recipe for pan roasted potatoes cooked with Indian spices that I was interested in trying.

Last night before the show Cathy and I had some tapas at Cafe Espanol that included a Potato Tortilla (Spanish Omelet). The tortilla was satisfying but I was in the mood to create something a little more robust. I decided to combine the two recipes and came up with: Indian spiced potato Tortilla. It seemed like a leap, but it turned out delicious. Even my fussy eater of a husband enjoyed it.
Here is to you Esperanza!

Indian Spiced Potato Tortilla

4 Tbs. oil

2 Tbs. *whole spice seeds 

4 red potatoes, washed and cut into 1/2" chunks

1 Tbs. butter

4 eggs lightly beaten with a fork

S & P

Heat oil and saute spices until they turn several shades darker.

Fry potatoes, tossing and turning, until coated with spices and lightly brown 

Remove potatoes and oil from pan into a bowl

Heat the butter in the pan

With a slotted spoon return the potatoes to the pan with the butter, allowing some of the spiced oil to drain off

Add the eggs to the pan, pouring over the potatoes, then add salt and pepper to taste

Cook eggs until they are set, about 5 minutes. 

Carefully slide eggs off the pan onto a plate and then invert the plate back over the pan to tunr the tore over.

Cook for another two minutes until the torte is set.

Serves two- Can be served hot or cold.

*for the whole spice seeds, mix and match what you may have on hand. I used about a teaspoon each of black sesame, fennel, celery, cardamom. Equally good would be cumin, mustard and nigella.


Amanda is away on a family vacation this week so we have no wine pairing for this recipe. Maybe this one time we will switch to beer, always a good combo with Indian spices.
Enjoy!

a little luck

Deborah
The start of this New Year is FIERCE as we in New York contend with cold cold temeratures and plenty of snow.





 
Black-eyed peas are a traditional New Year's day dish in some cultures. They are meant to bring good luck. So, why not start the new year on the right foot? I will use any help available, even from a pea!

Dried Black-Eye Peas will cook in about an hour in a covered pot of water simmered on the lowest heat.

Black-eyed peas have a warm, earthy and slightly metalic taste and they can hold their own with agressive seasoning. I decided to pair them with a bunch of kale to round out the flavors. These two ingredients can serve any number of cooking techniques.

 This purple kale that I picked up at Integral Yoga Natural Foods looked fresh and bouncy. A happy sight in winter.

My first desire was to make this hearty pasta dish. I could happily eat pasta and vegetables every day of the week if left to my own preferences so this preparation was one from the heart.

Black-Eyed Peas and Kale over Capellini
•Saute one bunch of chopped kale with lots of garlic and chili peppers in oilve oil.
•When the kale is tender add one and a half cups of cooked black-eyed peas.
•Add about 3/4 cup of stock or white wine and let it all simmer together for a few minutes crushing some of the B-E peas with the back of a spoon to thicken the sauce.
• Cook half a pound of pasta and drain, toss it with the vegetables in the hot pan and serve with a sprinkle of grated cheese and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Wanting to make another recipe with these ingredients I decided to make a bean patty.  Crispy on the outside and creamy in the middle this patty rivaled the pasta dish as my favorite of the year.

 Black-Eyed Pea and Kale Patties
•Blanch one bunch of chopped kale in salted boiling water till tender, then drain.
• Saute a chopped onion in olive oil till golden.
• Mash 1 1/2 cups cooked B-E peas roughly in a bowl with a potato masher or a large wooden spoon
• Add a beaten egg and 1/2 cup of  bread crumbs, the cooked drained kale and the onion, 1 teaspoon dried thyme, and salt and pepper to taste, and mix well.
• Form the mixture into patties and dredge in about 1/2 cup of bread crumbs spread out on a plate.
• fry the patties in hot oil till golden brown.

The patties- uncooked and cooked

My purchases of the dried B-E peas and two bunches of kale really served me well. The flavors were deep and satisfying and the recipes were filling enough to warm an empty belly on a cold day.

the wine pairing:
Amanda
Here's to good luck in 2011! Thanks, Deb, for these great recipes. I am particularly excited to try the patties! Nice and healthy. For both of these recipes, I'm thinking of a nice, cooler-climate, earthy Pinot Noir. Something from Oregon, a little Burgundian in style perhaps. Something soft and elegant, with ripe cherry fruit and a touch of earthiness. These characteristics are the perfect complement to the flavors Deb describes in her recipes.

The Willamette Valley in Oregon is a great place to start when experimenting with Oregon Pinot. Sipino produces a reliable, everyday food-friendly wine that has all the qualities of the "typical" Willamette style - bright red fruit, spice and earth. It retails for around $15. Argyle Winery is also located in the Willamette region and is one of my all-time favorites! A bit more expensive, their wines are definitely worth seeking out. The Pinots are more rich and robust, with a wonderful forest floor quality - perfect for Deb's Black-Eye Pea and Kale dishes!



Happy 2011!!!

Deborah
There seems to be a New Years theme stirring on a lot of blogs these past few days- a kind of "best of the year" recap. Magazines and newspapers traditionally do this and now the blogs are joining the tradition. So, why not? It seems like a fun idea to look back at the year and choose my favorite posts from 2010. Amanda has her own favorites, so let's share!

 The last sunset of the year. Long Boat Key, Florida, December 31, 2010.

I had the amazing good fortune to spend New Years weekend in Sarasota, Florida at my husband's family home. What a treat to relax in some warm weather away from the pile up of snow, and now garbage, that is burying New York City right now. Oh, I'm already back from the trip and off to work, so my bliss is purely mental at this point. Big bags of garbage are piled up in my garage, dating back from Christmas week, that still have not been picked up by the beleaguered Sanitation Department yet. Oh joy.

New years eve in a warm climate means the opportunity to GRILL! Potatoes and yellow squash got very cozy over the flame.

Of the 89 posts Amanda and I wrote in 2010 at least 15 jumped out at me as my favorites. Wanting to narrow it down a bit I have selected my top five:

Starting back at the beginning of last year, the post from January 30th Opportunity Knocks was a very special occasion where I got to cook an Indian meal with my brother who was in town for the holidays from the Dominican Republic. We had a wonderful visit and an equally good meal.

June 21st brought me to Rockaway Beach with a fellow blogger and a large appetite for tacos as described in the post So close and not so far. I have sent many people over to Rockaway Taco since then to sample their delicious fare.

On September 24th I wrote about someone dear to my heart, chef Bill Telepan, who is working incredibly hard to improve the lunches of our NY City school children, as described in the post Local Hero.

October 17th and I'm Back from Paris. nuff said.

November 9th brought two young guests to my home, and a beloved recipe for stuffed vegetables that I have made for years, as we celebrated horses and young men.

Our New Years Eve dinner wine was this yummy Cab from 2004 that we really enjoyed. Notice the bottles are empty. Amanda, do you know this wine?

2011 lays before us and I can't wait to see what it brings. Many happy days of wine and vegetables I hope! Amanda, what were your favorite posts from 2010?

Amanda

One of my favorite posts was written just around this time last year, on January 27th. It was the post where Deb featured the Chick Pea, Quinoa and Spinach burgers. Today, they are still a favorite. I make them all the time! The post, called Back to Beans, was a big hit!


A Gift From the Sea is another of my favorite posts from 2010, when I paired a Pinot Blanc from Alsace with Deb's Arame and Carrot Stir-Fry. Another of my go-to dishes when I want to feel ultra-healthy!


In March, Deb did a great post featuring a Argentine restaurant, La Vuelta, in Long Island City. The Sun-Dried Tomato and Black Bean Quesadilla is fabulous, particularly when paired with an Argentine Malbec! You can re-visit this post, by clicking We'll Be Back.


I had a lot of fun with my post, The Real Deal, when I wrote about a party I attended with my friend John Gonzalez, who made the best pizza I have ever had in my life!


Finally, July brought Deb's Post, Like Mama Makes, featuring a wonderful, refreshing Gazpacho recipe which I suggested pairing with Albarino or Godello. As Gazpacho is my all-time favorite summertime treat, this post ranked among my favorites of 2010!


Thanks, Deb, for a great year of posting! Happy New Year everyone! And all the best for a great 2011!

the morning after

Deborah

Is it really over? Goodness, how quickly a day goes by. This year's Christmas dinner in my home was the usual juggling act as I attempted to serve 27 people at a table meant for 10 at the most. I had to resort to two seatings, not what I would have preferred, but honestly I did not have a choice. The first seating was for "the kids" and by that I mean anyone younger than 22 years old. Our very youngest is not yet two but the twelve other kids range in age from 16 to 22, which is a scary thought. They are very big. It seems not that long ago they all could just fit on our laps. Now they want their own chairs. Ok, ok.

The KIDS asked me to make enchiladas for dinner, an unconventional choice for our traditions, but why the heck not?

Despite all the hard work and my overly ambitious menu that started off manageable, I truly feel this dinner is a labor of love. It is the one day of the year when my entire family gathers to spend time together, enjoying each other's company and acknowledging the changes that time brings.  I wouldn't change a thing about it.

The ADULTS were more interested in the braised short ribs and spinach timbale.

This year's menu. No, not vegetarian.

The blizzard that arrived the day after Christmas was perfectly timed to keep me home, to rest and reflect on my good fortune and the blessings of the love of my large and ever growing family.

This cock-eyed cutie captured my heart when I met her at the Cluny Museum in Paris this October.
 I can relate to her weary expression.

 

The very persistent snow and wind caused drifts to form INSIDE my doorway!

The view from upstairs looking down into my garden. The amazing sights of the season.

My favorite recipe from Christmas dinner was the Spinach Timbale.  The easiest version to make is by using frozen spinach, thereby saving several steps:

-chop an onion and saute till tender in butter

-blend a package of defrosted spinach with the cooked onion, a bunch of chopped dill and salt and pepper in a food processor till fine. 

-add 2 cups of heavy cream, 3 eggs and 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese and blend another few seconds till well combined.

-butter a baking pan and pour the spinach mixture in.

-bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes till the timbale sets.

This delicious, savory treat will be a great side dish for just about any hearty winter meal.

STAY WARM!

in the mood

Deborah
I once heard a Mid-Western visitor comment that he did not like the North East landscape, complaining "you can't see anything because of all the trees." At the time I thought what a strange comment. Aren't trees the whole point? But I did appreciate the humor of the image and in fact every winter I look forward to a landscape revealed through the spindly fine lines of bare tree branches.

This weekend I went up to The Cloisters in Fort Tryon Park to hear The Waverly Consort's holiday concert of music from the Middle Ages.  The museum was decked out in holiday mode and the atmosphere was warm & cozy within the heavy stone-faced interior.

The vocal music was heavenly, echoing around the hall. 

I have been making holiday cookies, candies and latkes all month and have many more big festive meals to go. My friend Joann, a wonderful home cook, turned me on to a really tasty appetizer she served us last night from a recipe found in Cooking Light Magazine. The Artichoke and Fennel Caponata was so good, filled with fresh zippy flavor. Cooking Light has very reliable recipes and this one was no exception. It is an addictive treat that won't fill you up. Try it on the IT Crackers from last weeks post. A big batch will go a long way and makes a great condiment on grilled or roasted foods.

Artichoke and Fennel Caponata

 click here for recipe

This delicious caponata is worth a try. The recipe is simple to make and loaded with tangy capers, sweet golden raisins, lemon zest and parsley.

the wine pairing:

Amanda

Beautiful pictures, Deb. I wish I had known about this recipe prior to my big holiday party this past Saturday night, which by the way was a big hit. Lots and lots of food. Passed hot hors d'ouerves with an antipasto table, shrimp cocktail and sushi platters. The Artichoke and Fennel Caponata would have fit right in with the other antipasti.

For occasions such as a holiday bash or informal get together where there are a variety of finger foods such as this caponata, I recommend a crowd-pleasing selection of wines. I had plenty of Pink Prosecco on hand which really contributed nicely to the festive atmosphere. For whites, I had an inexpensive French blend from the Cotes de Gascogne called Domaine Sancet. It's a blend of wonderful white varietals such as Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Gros Manseng and Sauvignon Blanc. Lots of upfront fruit and extremely food friendly. And only $7.99 per bottle! For reds, I had plenty of d'Arenberg Stump Jump Shiraz 2008 to go around. Rated 90 points by The Wine Spectator, this ripe, juicy, fleshy Shiraz retails for around $8.99. These are the types of wines I like to offer at my parties - especially when they are on the larger size and the wallet is an issue. Simple, easy-quaffing juice is what I seek out! I save the more serious, expensive selections for smaller, more intimate gatherings where people are in attendance not only for the food and company, but for the wine as well!

hale to the kale

Deborah
It is hard to avoid kale these days as it lingers perpetually at farmers markets, a hero to the end, the last of the greens to withstand the ever chilling temperatures. Hook Mountain Growers latest blog post is all about kale and includes some wonderful recipes to check out. It got me thinking about this rough and ready green that has enough ruffle-y bounce to wear as a ballet tutu.

Bringing kale home from the market the bag bulges as if stuffed with new down pillows. When preparing, trim off the chewy stems and cut the leaves into bite sized strips before cooking. I was making a standard sauteed kale with garlic for a client this weekend and jazzing it up with a balsamic reduction, when I decided to go in a different direction with the bunch I bought for myself. This quick making dish of curried kale with chick peas and raisins is satisfying and warming on a cold almost winter day.

 Simmer the meaty kale and earthy chick peas with sweet coconut milk and tart raisins to make a delicious meal of balanced flavors and textures.

Curried Kale with Chick Peas and Raisins 

2 quarts water, salted

1 Bunch of kale, stems trimmed off and leaves chopped into 1" strips

1 Tbs. canola oil

1 onion thinly sliced

1.5 Tbs. curry powder

1.5 cups cooked chick peas

1 cup coconut milk

1/2 cup golden raisins

Bring water to a boil and blanch the kale for about 6-8 minutes until tender and bright green. Drain and set aside. In a saute pan heat the canola oil and saute the onions about 5 minutes till golden. Add the curry powder and stir to combine completely with the oil in the pan. Add the chick peas, coconut milk, rasins and kale and stir to combine.  Simmer ten minutes and taste to adjust seasonings adding salt as needed. Serve with a grain like basmati rice or quinoa.

the wine pairing:

Amanda
This is great! I am on a kale kick but have been running out of ideas for its preparation. Lately I have been eating it raw - simply chopping it very small and enjoying it mixed with some finely chopped celery and cabbage and tossing it with one asian vinaigrette or another - whatever is inspiring at that moment. So thank you, Deb, for another kale option!

Curry is something else I have been enjoying. In fact, aromas of this spice fill my house at this very moment, having just made a curried yellow-split pea soup which came out quite good if not a little thin. (oops). Deb, as usual, I have a question. Is the coconut milk you used sweetened? I am never quite sure which one to use when cooking.

For this particular recipe, I would open a great bottle of Gewurztraminer. This white varietal has extremely distinct aromas and flavors of lychee fruit. And, there are heavenly "spicey" characteristics as well. One of my favorite whites, it has its admirers and its opponents. I think most people either love it or hate it. If you have not yet had the "gewurz" experience, I strongly urge you to run to your local retailer and purchase a bottle!

Many Gewurztraminers are off-dry (slightly sweet) but there are many drier styles available. The grape is at its finest in Alsace, France. For outstanding representations of this grape, look to producers Trimbach or Zind Humbrecht. They are absolutely two of the finest producers of this white in Alsace. 

The unique floral, spicy aromatics and distinctive flavors of this wine make it an ideal match for Asian, Thai, and Indian cuisines. Gewurztraminer would definitely complement Deb's dish perfectly!